HAPPY BIRTHDAY, B1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thursday, December 12, 2013
Atlantic Ocean / calm seas / Sunny, 77 F

I really hate to miss B1’s birthday today. We hope to call her later this afternoon—it will be an interesting process that we have never done before. [Note: We tried calling at 4:45 EST to no avail. We briefly had phone service, but it quickly dissipated when I dialed the number. We have to dial 011 1 814 then the number]. In an email yesterday Randy said he had texted me, but no texts appear either.  We ended up using the ship’s phone in our stateroom to call sweet B1. It was wonderful to talk to her and hear her voice. She will celebrate her birthday with basketball practice!  Happy Birthday!! I really miss my Bs.

Instead of room service, TK and I have been going to Horizon Court for a buffet breakfast. The fruits are glorious, fresh strawberries, pineapple, honeydew, cantaloupe, grapes, papaya, and I have tried Chinese melon which is a very sweet white.  Other choices include waffles, pancakes, omelets made to order, scrambled and fried eggs, eggs Benedict, breakfast burritos, hash brown potatoes, fish, sausages like bratwurst, bacon, ham, oatmeal and cold cereals, cheeses, and an unbelievable assortment of breads, bagels, croissants, donuts, toasted white, rye, wheat, banana bread, usually 3 kinds of Danish, and today stollen bread. Plus so much more.

And stollen bread, really very good, segues to my friend MJ, and the 5K walk I did this morning in her name. MJ makes the very best stollen bread and I wish she would apprentice me when she makes it. Today Princess held a Susan G. Komen—On Deck For The Cure 5K walk to raise money to support breast cancer research.TK remembered to bring his pink Erie Firefighter shirt, “Proud to wear pink,” so he let me wear that. I only have my regular shoes, but they are comfortable to walk in.

We signed up in Crooners Bar and I teamed up with Mary from Houston. For signing up and making a donation, Princess gave us a sun hat that I will give MJ. Anyway, we were told 8 laps on Deck 7 would be 5K. Sometimes I am not very good at paying attention and Mary and I were having a lively conversation about cruising, Europe, grandchildren, Christmas, and so on. Up stairs, down stairs, round and round. I kept thinking we were walking a mile. It never took me that long to walk a mile at LECOM. Longer and longer, half an hour, 45 minutes, then an hour. Finally, I told Mary this was the longest mile I ever walked. She laughed and said 5K was more like 3 miles, especially with the stairs. What!?!  So, today I walked on deck for the cure!!

TK was at the beach most of today.

For our evening entertainment we went to the movies under the moon shining brightly. I am so glad we saw The Lone Ranger on a large screen!! The last 15 minutes were full of mischief, mayhem, and madness, almost the best movie ending I have ever seen. I wish I could see it again with my brother. We used to watch the TV show in black and white, even listened on radio!

I hope friend M has gotten all my packages (Christmas presents) that were delivered to her house—I did not get a chance to tell her she would get at least 3 packages, maybe more.

Things I learned this morning from the morning show:

·         There are 7 galleys aboard Ruby Princess. One galley is strictly for preparing food for the crew. There is a butcher on board, bakers, and any other food specialist necessary to ensure passengers enjoy their meals.

·         I did not go on the Backstage Tour, but they showed some of it this morning. There are two or three tailors/seamstresses on board solely to maintain the 1000 costumes used in production numbers.   On TV we saw the “carousel” used to store the costumes, like those you see at the dry cleaners, only this carousel is 3 decks high!!!

TK’s Take: This is the best deal we ever had on a cruise—it was a killer price for the entire getaway—extra days in Barcelona, airfare, inside stateroom for 15 days of cruising, and then we were upgraded to a balcony cabin.  He also said that this is not a cruise for anyone under 60. I think he means that the activities are geared toward older people.

JK’s Take: The internet connection is so unbelievably slow. Last night it took over 5 minutes just to attach one photo to my blog. I tried to post this at noon and I waited 5 minutes to get on BlogSpot-----I finally stopped.

AT SEA----RUBY PRINCESS

AT SEA---
Wednesday, December 11, 2013
Atlantic Ocean / calm seas / Sunny, 76 F / water temperature 73 F

TK told me there are winter storms in Erie. I hope everyone is handling that well. One day left before a special birthday tomorrow. Fourteen days till Christmas.  We are thinking of family!

Today was not that different from others. Another lecture about ocean liners, TK at the beach. Reading books, enjoying live music everywhere. Today’s special music is Beatles with a show at 9:15.

Tuesday, December 10, 2013
Atlantic Ocean / easy seas / Cloudy, 71 F / water temperature 75 F

We learned today at noon during the Commodore’s announcement that we are sailing at 19 knots or 22 mph. We have 1150 miles to sail to Fort Lauderdale on Saturday morning.  He went on to tell us that the Atlantic Ocean, the 2^nd largest, was named for Atlas, the Seas of Atlas. The Atlantic Ocean is 41 million square miles. The Commodore also told us that the ocean is 12,000 feet deep where we are passing.

I did not see the Meteorological Buoy that the ship passed a little while ago. Apparently there are such buoys around the world to help gain information about weather patterns and what weather is coming. The Commodore told us that he purposely sailed near it.

This morning I went to John Maxtone-Graham’s lecture, “Liner to the Sun,” about the first vacation like cruises in the early 1900s. At first such ships were making “crossings” specifically as transportation. People wanted destinations in warmer areas, long before such ports were developed as such. Mr. Graham showed a charming old image of Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas and a street that I recognized. He also had a photo of a ship that visited the construction of the Panama Canal and the cruise passengers, women in long gowns and fashionable hats, men in white suits and straw hats, exploring the Culebra excavation area. Fascinating.

He has written books about cruising and crossings, so I decided to purchase the one that had information on Holland America’s Rotterdam, the ship I sailed in 1967 and 1968 to cross to France and then return to New York.

We went to the “beach” this afternoon and read for a while even though it was cloudy.

This evening we met with the couples who went on our Rome tour with us in the Skywalkers Lounge, Jack and Lan (Austin, Texas) and Connie and Harry (near Atlanta, Georgia). TK was the star because of his cruise finding skills. Everyone wants to know how he does it!

After that I went to the dining room and TK went to the Movie under the Stars (Pacific Rim). After dinner (spinach quiche with too much spinach J, I went to Night Country & Western in Club Fusion and saw the Mentalist Wayne Hoffman in the Explorers Lounge.

The Princess Morning Show was broadcast from one of the huge food storage areas on the ship. Two decks are reserved for such storage. We could see the vegetables (pallets stacked high with carrots, onions, potatoes, cucumbers—the hosts said that by Saturday all of the stored food would be used). They also said that there is a cooler unit for bananas alone—varied temperatures in different areas of the cooler for ripening the bananas at different times. I did notice that the bananas in the buffet are always right at the ripeness I like.

TK’s Take: this was the best day yet, calm seas and warm. He spent most of the day at the beach.

AT SEA---- 

Monday, December 9, 2013
Atlantic Ocean / 10 ft. swells / Cloudy, 69 F

I just cannot believe how warm it is in the middle of the Atlantic, which according to maps aboard, is just about where we are. Last year’s voyage with a southerly heading was in early November, so it did not seem unusual that the weather was warmer. But, this year, in December? Too bad we can’t build 2^nd homes in the Atlantic! Although that would certainly upset the ecological balance.

This morning’s digital camera lecture was a field trip. We used tungsten light white balance settings at the atrium and cloudy WB settings on deck. Tara, the superb photo lecturer from Ireland took us to the 19^th deck to see her photography studio and try out studio lighting. I was amazed at how setting my DSLR to 200 ISO and using tungsten WB could make such a difference in indoor photos.

I have started reading my 4^th book this trip.  Sea days are good for that. I have been reading historical fiction, one about a Spanish queen in the 1500s, another about a Provencal mystery in the 1600s. TK is almost finished with his 2^nd book, Stephen King’s Doctor Sleep, a sequel to The Shining.

Tonight we saw the production show, “Stardust,” with the Princess dance troupe and singers. Music from the 50s and 60s—Boone’s “Catch a Falling Star” and “Three Coins in the Fountain” were two songs.

Last night’s Pub Night was fun---a sing along and pub jokes with the Princess troupe.

TK’s Takes: He thinks smoking is on the way out on Princess.  There is no smoking anywhere, even balconies, except for one small area on Deck 7 and a smoking room in the casino. No one seems to be smoking anyway. On last year’s NCL Epic cruise it seemed everyone was smoking. [Note: most passengers were European last year]

Culinary Delight of the Day: Last night’s dessert was Burned Rhubarb Napoleon. Even though the burned part did not make the dish sound good, it was unbelievable: A warm rhubarb sauce served with a five layered piece of cake Napoleon, and a small scoop of ice cream.

SNOW IN PHILADEPHIA!

Sunday, December 8, 2013
Atlantic Ocean / 8 p.m. / 4 p.m. Erie
Sunny, 68 F, a little bumpy

As I write, the Eagles are playing Detroit in much snow! On the other hand, we have had a good temperate day. It is so surprising to go onto our balcony and feel the sunny warmth. There was a short rain shower this morning, but it quickly dissipated.  We were expecting much cooler weather on the Atlantic, but our southerly route is warm. I watched the movie Titanic too many times, no hints of icebergs here! [Note: Eagles won!] We are sure there is a gang at son Brian's today.

 

Today’s choices were many. Three different movies were available at various times, either by the pool or in the theater. We viewed Now You See Me, but other choices were The Way, Way Back and Overboard. Two football games were shown aboard, Eagles vs. Lions and Seahawks vs. 49ers. 

I also went to Scholarship@Sea, “Princes of Wales Part I,” during which author John Maxtone-Graham spoke of the House of Windsor’s princes-in-waiting and how they were treated as children.  The subject turned out to be quite intriguing.  Other choices were bridge lectures, napkin folding, putt putt, ping pong, zumba, Bingo, card games, a scavenger hunt, basketball, a Catholic mass, trivia games and much more.  There are at least three Scholarship@Sea lectures every day (today—“The Life and Influence of Alexander the Great” and “Sex, Sea, and Scandal in Victorian England.” TK entered another slot tournament.

Live music venues begin at 11 a.m. and continue until late night all over the ship. I read my book to Flamenco music for an hour in the main piazza. We may go to “Ye Old Pub Night” a little later.

Transatlantic cruisers treasure all the sea days and we have met so many people aboard who do just that. This cruise has 10 sea days, more than some people would like.

TK’s Takes: The water temperature (Atlantic Ocean) was 70 F today. At noon the Commodore announced that the ocean was 2 miles deep where we were. He gives longitude and latitude everyday too, but we can’t remember that. The water temperature is what makes the air warmer!

PEARL HARBOR REMEMBRANCE

Saturday, December 7, 2013
Atlantic Ocean / South of the Azores / 9 p.m. Atlantic / 5 p.m. Erie
Sunny, 60s, large wavelets, 2 ft. swells  (the Commodore says we are sailing just ahead of 12 ft. waves)

Today’s highlight was the Gathering of Veterans for the Pearl Harbor Remembrance. There are many veterans aboard, from World War II to the current conflict. Each veteran introduced himself and his branch of service. Most were U.S. Army or Marines.  One gentleman who did not attend was a veteran of World War II, Omaha Beach. He was interviewed by Steven Spielberg for the movie, Saving Private Ryan. Apparently he has written some books and I want to know more about that. I hope to meet him.  We also learned that Jeremy, the Assistant Bar Manager, from Augusta, Georgia, served in the U.S. Army in Somalia, Bosnia, and Iraq.  I think Friend H really needs to take a cruise on the Ruby Princess!!  (More about Jeremy later)

There was another good digital photography seminar, as well as a seminar, “Who Killed Harry Oakes?”  The lecturer, David Bryn Lewis, a former policeman with Scotland Yard, has researched the murder of wealthy philanthropist Harry Oakes in the Bahamas in 1943. Figures like Lucky Luciano, Meyer Lansky, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, a Nazi spy, and other “characters” had parts in this unsolved murder case. 

The “Production Show Spectacular” tonight was “Colors of the Wind.”  Songs and dances from the Orient, the Middle East, and the Western World were performed very well---lots of color, glamor, and glitz with talented performers. Some of the songs like “True Colors” and “Over the Rainbow” stood out.

I think B1’s birthday party was today at Splash Lagoon. I really am sorry to miss that. She knows we love her and we hope she has a great time.  I sure was thinking about B2 today too. We will be home in a week.

_______________________________________

About Jeremy. When we boarded the ship, TK bought me a “Coke Card,” which means I would have unlimited fountain Coca Cola Light for the duration of the cruise at $4 per day or about $75. The first glass I had tasted funny. So did the next several. In the dining room the taste was absolutely awful.  After three days, I finally went to the Guest Services desk and asked to speak to the Bar Manager. That is when I first encountered Jeremy. He explained about Coca Cola and the “guns,” the mix, etc. Of course, I know about all that, mentioning that I can go from New York City to Los Angeles and the fountain drinks all taste the same for the most part. Jeremy said that I could have cans of Coca Light for the rest of the cruise.  A few days later I saw Jeremy again and thanked him for the six cans of pop he had delivered to our room, as well as the better tasting cans at the bar. He said that they looked into the situation further and realized something was wrong after all with the fountain drinks aboard the entire ship.  He said Coca Cola representatives would be boarding the ship in Fort Lauderdale. Bingo! Jeremy was always very nice and I wish friend H could meet him!! J

TK’s Takes:  He liked the entertainment on the NCL Epic better. He will make the final call at the end of the cruise. He does like Movies Under the Stars on this ship. 

FUN IN FUNCHAL, ISLAND OF MADEIRA, PORTUGAL

Friday, December 6, 2013
Island of Madeira, off the coast of Morocco / southeast of the Azores
5 p.m. Atlantic / Noon Erie / Sunny, 70s

The Port of Funchal on the Island of Madeira seems so cosmopolitan, almost like Monte Carlo East! Madeira is a volcanic island that suffered bad mudslides two years ago. It is 286 square miles, 35 miles in length and 14 miles wide, with 280,000 inhabitants. According to Princess literature, Madeira was probably discovered by the ancient Phoenicians. The Portuguese settled in after the early 1400s. Madeira means “wooded.”  Trees, fruit, flowers, and vegetables of every variety flourish here in the volcanic soil and sunny climate. The wine trade has been very important since the 1600s. 

Young Christopher Columbus was sent to Madeira in 1479 to buy a cargo of sugar for a Portuguese merchant. He decided to stay there and married the daughter of the islands’ first governor. Formulating many ideas about using the trade winds to sail westward, Columbus moved back to Spain when she died and his travels started from there.   

TK and I left the ship about 8:30 a.m. and took the quick shuttle into Funchal. We agreed to a 2 hour taxi tour with Diogo from center city for 50 € for just the two of us.

After we saw a small fishing village with narrow cobbled streets and older fishing boats moored, we drove to the top of Cabo Girao, the world’s second highest sea cliff that plunges over 1500 feet to the waves of the Atlantic below.  A glass tiled platform extends out over the cliff so people can see straight down. Walking onto that platform was quite a challenge for me, no problem for a firefighter! Anything for a photo!

Cabo Girao looking down through the glass tiles 1500 ft.

On this drive we noted so many beautiful flowers, like poinsettia, fragrant roses, hydrangea, poker plants, cacti, and so many more we did not know.  We saw other vistas along the shore then headed back to the city.

Funchal is noted for hand-stitched embroidery so we stopped at the factory to see the exquisite work done there, intricate tablecloths, placemats, napkin rings, table runners, and more.  Beautiful hand knitted sweaters were in other shops.

The produce and fish markets were worth visiting---vendors cut the fruit for public tasting, so sweet and exotic, fruits I had never seen before, too. I will have to research some of these fruits. One was called “delicious fruit” and I doubt that was the Latin name. J  Carrots were the size of cucumbers. On our drive we also saw gardens with cauliflower, corn, grapes, tomatoes, bananas, potatoes, all growing prolifically.

Funchal streets are decorated for Christmas.  I loved the huge snowmen in a park and poinsettias hanging in baskets along street lights.  I wondered if Erie weather is bad, the bustle of Christmas shoppers,  and how Denise is doing at DOTS this season.

We enjoyed lunch at Golden Gate, a restaurant rooted in the early 1800s. We sat on a balcony on the 2^nd floor overlooking the street and sidewalk. Live music played below us. Hamburgers and fries were on the menu for 6.8 € with a liter of natural water (as opposed to bubbly water) and cost us 20 €, including tip.  The burger was thick and juicy with lettuce and tomato. The cheese was interesting, white and tasty. There was a salad of very fresh lettuce, cherry tomatoes, green and black olives, drizzled with an excellent olive oil dressing. The fries were more than up to my standard, crisp and hot.

A few blocks away at the Ritz I had mixed berry gelato and TK had lemon and mango scoops. The gelato was good, but more like ice cream.

I bought some souvenirs family and friends and now it will be very interesting to see what the suitcases will weigh. I cannot resist.

When we leave port in about two hours, it will be 7 ½ days before we see land again, Fort Lauderdale, Florida—December 14, 2013.

Note: When I tried to post this before we left port, Google.it appeared and wanted a mysterious password. I hope the post goes on smoothly now at 9:30 p.m. Europe/Atlantic. Tonight we turn the clock back another hour.  After dinner Tim went to the “Movies Under the Stars” to see Star Trek Under Darkness while I went to the Wheelhouse Bar to listen to live music while I read.

 

I miss my family.

TK’s Take: The fish market was different here, a special area just for selling fish. The knives used to skin and fillet the fish are very sharp. The vendors are very skilled with their knives. He just returned to the stateroom from the pools and says it is 85 F.

LAZY DAYS AT SEA

Thursday, December 5, 2013
Ruby Princess on the Atlantic Ocean / 5:00 p.m. Atlantic / 12 p.m. Erie
Sunny, 68 F, calm seas

I was mistaken when I wrote that we had passed Gibraltar Tuesday night and sailed into the Atlantic.  I was so happy that I did not miss that show!! Last night about 9:45 p.m. (Wednesday) on our balcony on the port side, we saw many lights from land. We realized it was North Africa. I quickly went on deck to the starboard side so that I could see Gibraltar quite close and Spain at a distance. The land lights on both sides of the Straits of Gibraltar looked like church votive candles dancing and flickering in the dark. The bright stars overhead added another effect. 

Now we are sailing smoothly in the Atlantic Ocean headed southwest toward Madeira, Portugal, an island south of the Azores.  No land in sight!

TK spent the day by the pool. I went to a lecture, “The Process of Writing Historical Fiction,” given by author Thomas Williams. I learned a few things about this genre. Mr. Williams has written a trilogy that traces his main character from World War I, World War II, and his protégé in the Vietnam War. Tom Williams is a Vietnam veteran with quite a story himself. When I asked if he had written it down, he told me no, yet he writes of war.

This afternoon I saw Great Expectations (2012), based on a Dickens novel. Two hours long. Ralph Fiennes and Helena Bonham Carter. Well done, but long.

Dinner soon, then TK wants to see Man of Steel.

This would not be a good cruise for B1 and B2. I am sure that activities are created for the very few children aboard (I have only seen 3, a girl about 8, and 2 boys probably 12 and 13), but it would not be as fun as having a bunch!  No towel animals so far either. There are cartoons on TV, but cartoons could be tiresome for 15 days straight.

Today’s Princess Morning Show mentioned that Internet service will not be very good on the crossing---satellites are focused on land, not oceans! I do not know how much longer I can post.

TK’s Takes: Nice day for a swim. Pools are heated, fresh water.

Note to remember:  When crossing the Atlantic west to east, port side is best because the stateroom gets full sun. When crossing east to west, starboard side is best.  Fortunately, we remembered that!        

I cannot access my Verizon account, so I can only use Yahoo this trip. 

DON’T BELIEVE EVERYTHING!

Wednesday, December 4, 2013
Aboard Ruby Princess, on the Mediterranean approaching the Atlantic Ocean
2 p.m. Atlantic time / 9 a.m. Erie---we turned the clock back one hour last night!
Sunny, 65 F, calm seas
Warning: This is not the most exciting post....

TK and I went to a digital camera seminar, conducted by an Irish lass in Explorer’s Lounge.  She is in charge of the “Platinum Studio,” specializing in portraits. Her information inspired me to tackle my Canon SX260 again and I learned how to turn the flash on always so that when I take photos of people they turn out better.

TK entered the Slot Tournament and was in second place for a while, but is now shut out.

Lunch in the “English Pub” turned out to be interesting. Fish and Chips, Beef Pie, and Ploughman’s Lunch were on the menu. I asked the server exactly what was in the beef pie and she replied beef. I asked her if there was kidney in the pie and she responded with no.

After a few bites, I thought the taste was a little off, but I still believed her. TK took a bite and said, “Not beef.”  A manager came by and we asked him what the ingredients were. His reply, “Diced beef and kidney.” I laughed. Oh Well!!!! I survived.

At 2:30 p.m. we are going to see The Heat, the movie with Sandra Bullock and Melissa McCarthy. We might see tonight’s movie, Now You See Me.

I am sure this does not seem very exciting, but we are relaxing and doing whatever we want. No laundry, no house cleaning, no cooking.

WHAT A ROMAN DAY! PART II / UPDATED

Tuesday, December 3, 2013 / on the Mediterranean Sea aboard Ruby Princess
Sunny, mid 60s / gentler seas and wind

Rome Continued: Driver Stefano told us that several basilicas in Rome are considered part of the Vatican, and our next stop was such a church, the Pope’s Cathedral / Arcibasilica San Giovanni in Laterano. From what I understood, there are four such Vatican churches (the earliest major early Christian churches in Rome and located in various areas). St. Peter’s is obviously one of the four.

San Giovanni (St. John’s) was so huge. A very poor analogy is that the apse is about the size of one and a half football fields, and so very gloriously high with marble columns reaching upwards of 40 feet or more. 

Stefano tried to explain a custom of the Holy Door. My understanding is that every 25 years the Pope visits this church and knocks on this Holy Door with a hammer. It is opened and he then knocks down a brick wall to enter the Basilica. We visited two churches with such doors and tradition, so I want to know more about that.
 

Aged, large hand carved wooden confessionals were available in different languages.

A museum shop was tended by Sisters, very short in stature, but grand on gentility. I purchased some rosaries, a book All the Popes, From St. Peter to Francis, (266 Popes), and medals here.  

Stefano made a quick stop at Chiesa San Stefano Rotonde, which was closed on Monday. I will have to do some research to know more about it, but it was very very old.

A note here: I realize not everyone is interested in so much detail, but I write this blog to remember and admittedly I am completely in awe of the art and architecture created in the adoration of God and the Savior by people a thousand years ago and past the Middle Ages into the Renaissance without the benefit of today’s technology, only their faith in God.

Our next stop was the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. It is the most ancient and largest of the basilicas dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is also the best preserved of the city’s four major early Christian basilicas, built around 400 A.D. with additional chapels built in the 16^th and 17^th century. The campanile (dome) is the highest in the city.  There is a “Holy Door” here, too. Relics of the Crib are kept near the high altar, five pieces of the manger which held the infant Jesus.  Two popes are buried in this church. Each pope’s image (all 266) are depicted in medallion shapes high along the ceiling. Francesco said there was room for 5 more centuries of popes!

We had a guide, Francesco, to see the archeological research under this church, open only by special arrangement. After passing through a museum with papal vestments, gold chalices, and 5 ft. tall candle holders (certainly not the right name), we descended underground to a former Roman palace only recently discovered.  Stone walls of a courtyard were uncovered, as well as the longest calendar fresco ever seen (basically a wall covering from the 1^st century or earlier painted in fresco, depicting images portraying the months of the year. January to June on one side, July to December on the other. September was depicted as a month of harvest. I told Tim that this would be the closest he would ever be to an unprotected 1^st century fresco. 

By this time it was nighttime in Rome so we saw the city’s colorful Christmas lights, the Coliseum, and the Forum brightly lit.

It was time for a gelato stop so Stefano took us to “one of the best” but I did not catch the name, near a park.  Creamy strawberry and pistachio scoops for me, dark chocolate and nut for TK. Stefano said to look for Gelaterias where they make the gelato on site.

Stefano told us that an English cemetery was nearby where British soldiers killed in World War II are buried. There is another cemetery where 9000 Americans killed in WW II are buried.

St. Paul’s Our final stop was St. Paul’s, another outlying Vatican church. Masses were held and rosaries were being said at every church we visited. The chants added to the spiritual atmosphere everywhere we went. St. Paul is always depicted with a sword, as he was a Roman soldier before he became a follower of Jesus Christ. This was another huge basilica, with many chapels and marble statues three times life size.

Gold, Bronze, Brass, Marble Of All Colors, Huge Fluted Columns, Carved Wooden Doors 15 Feet High, Domes, Tiber River, Bridges, Cobbled Narrow Streets, Roman Ruins, Bustling Traffic, Fountains, all speak Roman to me!!

Our return ride to Ruby Princess was just as rapid. By then it was cold again and we said “Ciao” to Stefano and walked to the ship!
 

WHAT A ROMAN DAY! PART I REVISED

Monday, December 2, 2013 / 10:20 p.m. Europe / 4:20 p.m. Erie
Sunny, high 50s/ casting off from Civitavecchia

Early this sunny, but windy morning we met our six tour mates, from Texas, Georgia, and Florida, for the tour in Rome. To our dismay we learned it was so windy the ship could not dock safely. Two hours later, the captain and the port pilot decided to dock, much to our relief!

Despite our late arrival, our RomeInlimo driver Stefano was waiting for us and drove rapidly to Rome. At least one of our companions was a wreck about this rapid ride of usually an hour and a half drive that took one hour!

After a little circle of the Coliseum, the Forum, and the Arch of Triumph, we drove toward the Seven Hills of Rome. I always thought the hills were far from the center of Rome, but now I realize that they are only just past the outside walls surrounding old Rome. We passed three of the Seven Hills/Aventine, Palatine, and Esquiline on the way to the Catacombe di San Callisto. Six of us descended with our English speaking guide about 30+ feet underground, 53 steps to the 3^rd level of the catacombs. At least two levels were below us.

The first stop was an area where early Christians worshipped and near where three popes were buried. Forty six popes were actually buried here, from 155 A.D. to the 4^th century A.D. San Callisto is the largest of all 67 Roman catacombs. Five hundred thousand people were buried at San Callisto in the first 4 centuries A.D. All bones have been removed now, either very early as relics, or more recently for protection.  The catacombs were not rediscovered until the mid-1800s. Every day, priests visit with groups and conduct Mass in underground areas of the catacombs

The catacombs were completely dry, not dank as others told me they might be. As we walked along the dark and winding corridors, we could see the horizontal spaces where individuals were buried in volcanic rock that could easily be dug out. Generally, spaces were made as one died, not ahead of time. Some families did make plans ahead of time and had “rooms” where the immediate family would be buried. Other families had larger rooms for extended family and that family would use the room for worship. Every so many feet there was a crevice for an oil lamp. Early Christian drawings and frescoes could be seen in some areas. What a powerful, spiritual experience this visit was.

The guide said that early Christians did not hide the fact that they were Christians. Formerly it was believed they prayed in the catacombs secretly. As our guide said, with so much excavation, every Roman would know what was going on.

When we left the catacombs, Stefano drove about 40 feet on the true Appian Way, rounded cobble stones about the size of a two fists, and very bumpy. He showed us the chariot marks and told us not to tell the RIL company he drove the car on it.

By 1 p.m. we were all hungry, so Stefano took us to L’Insalata Ricca Ristorante on Piazza Albania (www.linsalataricca). I had sumptuous Gnocchi di potato, potato gnocchi with tomato sauce and ricotta cheese. TK enjoyed Tortellini with zucchini and shrimp. The bread was as light as angel food cake. The whole meal was a culinary delight and cost 21 €. Others had crepes, pizza, and salads.

Note: I don’t have easy access to the Internet, so I cannot verify all the information and spellings. I interpreted our guides’ words as best I could at this time. Since we have three sea days, I am going to save the rest of Rome for another day. How blessed we were to see such wonders. And I sure am glad that I studied Latin!!!

TK’s: He said he wouldn’t last long driving in Rome—he would either be under arrest or in the hospital.

Today the Pope was meeting with Prime Minister of Israel and there was a very high level of security in Rome.

For tomorrow….

• Pope’s Cathedral / San Giovanni in Lateran
• Chiesa San Stefano Rotonde
• Santa Maria Maggiore and the archeological research underground open only by special arrangement, best preserved of the city’s 4 major early Christian basilcas, built around 400 A.D., with additional chapels built in the 16^th and 17^th century. The campanile (dome) is the highest in the city.
• Gelato near Cemetery of the English killed in WW II, 9000 Americans killed and buried in American Cemetery
• St. Paul’s

BUON GIORNO FROM PISA AND FLORENCE!

Sunday, December 1, 2013 / 8:30 p.m. Europe / 2:30 p.m. Erie
Sunny, 50s / very windy / casting off from Livorno

Rising early at 6 a.m., we were ready for a full day in the Tuscany region of Italy and another Princess tour of Pisa and Florence on our own.  Pisa, about ½ hour from the port, still reveals the famous bell tower that took over 177 years to build and has been leaning since construction began in 1173.  We headed straight for very strong coffee at Il Turista and the use of bathrooms. There are virtually no public restrooms in Europe, and if there are, one has to pay, e.g. .20 € to 1 € (30 cents to $1.36 or so). That is not much to pay, but finding the public “toilettes” can be difficult. It is far easier to purchase a coffee or something like that and use that bar or restaurant’s restrooms.  Usually these little restaurants give one a sense of the local culture!

 

Even though today was supposed to be warmer, it was not. I admit I was downright cold because of the wind. Brisk walking helped some, and we trudged on. I kept telling myself it was colder in Erie and there was no snow!

On the freeway to Florence, an hour and a half from Pisa, our escort told us it has snowed once already in Tuscany and people were anxious for skiing.  The Pyrenees (Apennines) were in view, peaks white with marble. I noted that regular gasoline in Italy was about $5/gallon. 

 TK and I decided to eat first and we chose Ristorante Finnisterrae (www.finisterraefirenze.com) at 12, Piazza Santa Croce. I had “Pizza Margherita,” pizza with fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, and basil (6.5 €). TK had “Rigatoni al pesto Mediterraneo,” rigatoni al dente, finely chopped walnuts, garlic, olives, and fresh tomatoes (9 €). We both had Coca Cola Light (3 € each). This restaurant is in the shadow of the Church of Santa Croce where Michelangelo, Dante, Galileo, and Marconi are buried

 After lunch we went to the outdoor Christmas market in the plaza nearby. Countries like France, Italy, Poland, Latvia, Germany, Scotland, England, Russia, Bavaria, and others were there selling handmade goods and food representative of their regions. Such a bonus to our trip. We saw boar sausage, stag sausage, donkey sausage, huge pretzels, pierogis, hot cider, strudel, special candies, a pig roasting, roasted chestnuts, and special breads like struchen.

We walked by leather goods stores with beautiful gloves and jackets, jewelry shops, and high end fashion shops (like Mossoni) but we could not walk by Gelateria dei Neri. TK tried two gelato flavors, mixed berry and lemon, and I had my favorite, strawberry. My advice to myself and all, never walk by a Gelateria no matter how cold it is outside. Our only criteria today was that we could stand or sit inside to enjoy!

I couldn’t go to Florence without reflecting on Ghiberti’s bronze Gates of Paradise on the baptistery, its leather and silk market (TK photographed the bronze boar), Michelangelo’s statue of David, and the Ponte Vecchio (the only bridge that Hitler spared on the Arno River in Florence in World War II).

Before we knew it, four hours passed and it was time to meet our bus. The ride seemed shorter this time as we returned to Ruby Princess. As soon as we were in our room I phoned our tour companions for tomorrow’s journey to Rome. I arranged this special tour with romeinlimo, a tour company we used last year. Tomorrow will be another early day and it is time to relax.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY FROM TOULON!

November 30, 2013 / 8:45 p.m. Europe / 2:45 p.m. Erie
Mediterranean Sea, severe gale force winds, cast off from Toulon, France

Last night the seas were heavy, but this is a very big ship and it only felt like we were being rocked to sleep. Tonight the winds are supposed to be worse as we sail to Livorno/Florence-Pisa.

Today is Brian’s birthday and I really missed taking him, Denise, and Breanna to dinner. We finally figured out how to make an overseas call, again thanks to TK’s acumen. Dial + by pressing the zero down on the phone, then dial 1 and the 10 digit phone number. So, at 5 p.m. I wished Brian Happy Birthday from France, over 4000 miles away from Erie!

Aix-en-Provence
The bus ride to Aix from Toulon was about 1 ¼ hours along the coast. Yachts are still in the water, cypress trees grow tall, tiled roofs reflect the sun, and medieval church spires reach to the sky. The tour operator told us that we may experience delays on the highway because of a truckers’ strike. Indeed we saw at least 112 semi-tractor trailers parked along the exit by Aix, but they politely parked so vehicles could go around them. They are protesting the European Union’s new tariff on intercountry roads. We were lucky today. We also noted that regular gasoline averages $7/gallon.

As soon as I saw Ste. Victoire, the mountain made famous by Cezanne, I knew I was home. I was so pleased to see that Aix was having a festival, “Fete Noel en Aix en Provence.” Despite a forecast of rain, the day was sunny and children and adults were enjoying a train ride with Santa (Pere Noel) and a few other carnival rides! “Chalets de Noel” (Christmas booths) were set up on Cours Mirabeau with all kinds of items for sale, lavender sachets and soaps, winter hats and scarves, linens, some handmade toys, sausages, waffles, roasting chestnuts, and a lot more. I was especially happy to see that five different “santonniers” were exhibiting and selling too. I had planned on the long walk to one workshop on Cours Gambetta. Santons are tiny handmade, hand painted clay figures that represent a Nativity scene, as well as village people and animals. In 2008 I purchased Santons for B1 and B2 and hope to add to their collection!  No Black Friday rush for us!

We went to La Rotonde to meet the I.A.U. alumni director but she did not arrive. There could be many explanations, but I was disappointed. La Rotonde was one of our hangouts in 1967-1968, because we could talk the chef into making a “hamburger sandwiche.” Now they have their own “R Burger” on the menu!! They add Provençal herbs and mozzarella cheese, thin ham slices, tomato, and pickle.  It was not what I expected! TK stayed safe with penne pasta and tomato basil sauce. The pommes frites were just like I remembered.

 Of course we walked all over the old city, exploring every cobble stone alley, nook, and corner. Fountains abound in Aix and it is fun to find them again. Aix has buildings from the 11^th - 18^th centuries in this area. We had 4 hours to ourselves, not enough for me and probably too much for TK. He did like sampling at Saturday’s produce and meat market.  

Just as we were getting on the bus to return to Toulon/Ruby Princess it started raining. Back onboard we went straight to dinner. Highlight: key lime pie.

We have to arise extra early tomorrow as our tour to Florence meets at 7:30 a.m.

TK’s Takes: He is glad the weather held out for today.  He saw some firefighters gathered by their fire truck—we asked if anyone wanted to trade a patch. One kind firefighter (pompier) took the patch off his shirt and gave it to TK! TK also notes that it is very rough and windy (howling) tonight!

MEDITERRANEAN SEA, aboard RUBY PRINCESS

November 29, 2013 / 8 p.m. Europe—2 p.m. EST/ calm seas

This morning we walked for several hours along Las Ramblas and lovely medieval passage ways with a stop at the Market. This vast market is such a sensory experience, with fresh produce, beef, veal, lamb, chicken, fish and other seafood, eggs of all sizes (even emu), the spices, the nuts, mushrooms (43 different kinds in one booth), candies, pastries, Brian’s olives (this time I counted and there were 30 different kinds-stuffed with various things or marinated in various oils, etc.), and things I can never unsee again.  I won’t explain in this brief blog, and I saw many items at market when I lived in France a year, but today I saw some things that could turn me into a vegetarian.

We returned to the Hotel Pulitzer (a hotel I recommended on Trip Advisor) about 12:30, retrieved our luggage, and took a taxi to the Ruby Princess.  Boarding the ship was very smooth—TK thinks of everything (charge cards & passports registered, location of ship’s areas studied ahead of time).

Our balcony stateroom is such a bonus, with ample closet space, a desk, lots of drawers and shelves, and a regular bathroom. Our stateroom experience last year on the NCL Epic when we cruised the Med really jolted us (translucent toilet capsule, translucent shower capsule, sink in the bed area) but we are very pleased with the Ruby.

We toured the ship thanks to a scavenger hunt. It is about 50 F today, so we won’t be swimming soon. The captain warned of heavy seas to come tonight, so we will take Bonine before going to bed.

Tomorrow we arrive in the port of Toulon, France where we have arranged a bus ride to Aix, the city I love. We are meeting with the Alumni Director of the school that I attended in the late 60s for lunch at La Rotonde, the restaurant where I had my first “hamburger sandwiche and pommes frites (real French fries)”, and two of my favorite desserts, Poire Helene (pears, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate sauce) and Peche Melba (peaches, vanilla ice cream, and raspberry sauce). 

TK’s takes: He is starting to remember more about Barcelona when he was in the Navy, e.g. chickens roasted on a spit on open fires and sold in alleys, the friendly people.  Easiest embarkation ever, we walked right on, great stateroom.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING FROM BARCELONA!

November 28, 2013 / 8:30 p.m. Europe—2:30 p.m. EST
Sunny, high 40s

 

While our family will just begin Thanksgiving dinner, we are in our hotel for the evening. Our dinner was paella at La Rambla on Las Ramblas. No turkey, no pumpkin pie on the menu. We settled for chicken paella (Spanish rice) and chicken/beef paella for TK. This probably was not a 3 star restaurant, but what a day we have had otherwise.

At 9:30 a.m. we took a taxi (6 €) to La Sagrada Familia, one of the most breathtaking, inspiring, spiritual churches I have ever entered.  Construction was begun in 1892, but the church will not be completed until about 2026.

Describing Sagrada Família, art critic Rainer Zerbst said, "It is probably impossible to find a church building anything like it in the entire history of art” and Paul Goldberger called it, "the most extraordinary personal interpretation of Gothic architecture since the Middle Ages.”

 I was so intrigued by this church last year that when Tim said we could return and tour inside I was very happy. We bought the tickets online which meant we had no wait to enter. We spent about 3 hours at least trying to capture every aspect, from the unique stained glass windows, the Nativity façade, the Passion façade, the incorporation of nature, the unbelievable use of mathematics, and a special tour of the Passion bell tower. The Passion tower is about 300 feet high. We took the elevator up and I walked down. The spiral staircase, reminiscent of the nautilus shell, was a little scary as I descended, narrow and no railing on one side. My knees were shaking the whole way down, but the view of Barcelona and the close-up view of the spires’ tops were worth the effort!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I truly hated to leave the church, but we took a taxi to Museu Picasso. The Metro is available, but the learning curve would slow us down (French or English no problem). Plus the cost of a taxi was extremely reasonable.  Pablo Picasso lived and painted in Barcelona. His friend decided to create this museum during Picasso’s lifetime, so Picasso donated many of his originals. The first room was filled with his work from age 13-18. His skill is certainly evident. I did not know that Picasso’s father was an art teacher.  Anyway, the museum shows examples of the evolution of his style. The Picasso Museum itself occupies five large town houses or palaces on the street Carrer de Montcada. The original palaces date from the 13th-15th centuries.  http://www.museupicasso.bcn.cat/en/

 After visiting the museum, we walked and walked the rest of the afternoon, toward Las Ramblas.  The streets were early 13^th – 15^th century, filled with small boutiques, art galleries, tabacs, and so on.  Our rule is, never pass up a chance for gelato (there is absolutely nowhere in Erie for true gelato, so we tried strawberry, pina colada, tutti frutti, raspberry, and coffee flavored. I loved strawberry, tutti frutti, and pina colada.

Finally, we had dinner as mentioned first. We continued walking until after 8 p.m. The streets are lighted for Christmas, and we saw Santa Claus! We also saw what we think was a rehearsal for an outdoor ballet---varied orchestra music, e.g. Macbeth, the opera. So beautiful, the delicate dancers on an open air stage, the director suggesting graceful steps.

Finally we entered El Corte Angles (department store, 4th largest in the world, largest in Europe)which turned out to be a city block footprint and 9 stories high. I believe it is bigger than Macy’s in NYC! There were 3 sets of escalators!!! Women’s, Men’s, Children’s departments, electronics department that could compete with our Best Buy, housewares, a full floor of toys and Santa’s workshop, even paint and things found in a hardware store, and much more, and a full scale grocery store in the lowest level.  The store reminded me of the Boston Store in its glory days, only a much larger scale.

Now we are in for the night, and we enjoyed Face Time with B1, Denise, and Brian. Just like we were with them. I tried Coleen’s iPad, but they must still be dining with family.

We had a nice Thanksgiving and wish our family could be with us!

 

TK's Takes:  Barcelona's nightlife is thriving. Reminds him of NYC. (Note: Barcelona's population is 1.6 million people)

HOLA! FROM BARCELONA!

November 27, 2013

Hotel Pulitzer/Calle Bergara 8

After 3 different flights, beginning at 12:05 p.m. EST out of Erie on November 26, we arrived smoothly in Barcelona at 3 a.m. EST. We retrieved our modest luggage and took the Aerobus (5.90 € each) to Place de Catalunya which is near Hotel Pulitzer. I am very pleased that Tim figured all this out last year so we look like pros! We were checked in and getting organized in our room by 5 a.m. (11 a.m. Europe time). The weather is sunny and cool, mid 40s, but I am getting along with a sweater and a fleece jacket.

By 6 a.m. we were walking along the nearby Las Ramblas, an internationally acclaimed street for strolling, with many restaurants and shops, the wonderful and huge market, Mercat St. Josep/La Bouqueria, and more.  One store, something like Macy’s in New York, had 6 floors of women’s and girls’ apparel. I noted that Levi jeans 504 were 81 €, another Levis jeans were 131 € ($178), plain Dockers were 93 €, some shoes were 15-20 €. I am noting this because the euro is worth about $1.36 today. So, jeans are EXPENSIVE!!  Plus I wanted to show off that I know how to make the euro symbol (type 20ac then alt-x).

By about 8 a.m. Erie time TK was fading, so we stopped and had lunch at Hard Rock, not the most cultural of meals, but we needed regular food. Cheeseburgers and fries. Tomorrow we will eat like the Spanish!

It is now 9:30 a.m. (Erie time) and TK is resting while I write. We are sagging after 25 hours of travel and culture!

HOTEL PULITZER: Its Avant Garde design appeals to us, clean, modern, and comfortable, great location, free wi-fi, reasonably priced, and we stayed here last year.

MERCAT ST. JOSEP/LA BOUQUERIE: This is one of the most exceptional markets I have ever experienced. It is about three times the size of Philly’s market and the choices are astounding. For Brian, there are probably 15 different choices of olives, stuffed with feta, or ham, or anchovies to name few. So many varieties of mushrooms, morel selling at 40 € a kg.! Beef and cheese prices were comparable to Erie. So many kinds of seafood. The candies and cookies, the vegetables. The vendors seem like artists as they design and display their “groceries.”

 TK's TAKE: He did not sleep on the overnight flight, many interruptions, dinner and breakfast. He says he is not as young as he used to be.

JK's TAKE: Since we both wanted aisle seats we sat across the aisle from each other. My seatmates were probably early 70s, from Arizona, and also going on a cruise. They fought loudly with each other using foul language almost the whole flight, while drinking lots of wine. It was very distracting and disconcerting. At one time the lady asked the cabin steward to get her a flight out of Barcelona back to Arizona, she wasn't going any further with her husband. The steward replied that we still had 4 hours to go till we were in Barcelona. I did not sleep either but I did read over 500 pages of Greg Iles' Blood Memory. Thank goodness this couple is not on our cruise!

TUESDAY TAKE OFF

Erie, Pennsylvania / November 25, 2013

In less than 24 hours we will be flying across the Atlantic (if the weather cooperates!)  Our 25 inch bags are packed and now my carry on is packed except for the things that need charging! I don't have as much room in my luggage as I hoped.

It is very cold in Erie--33 F right now. We sure hope that Europe is about 10-15 or more degrees warmer.

This time we decided not to get any euros in the U.S. and rely on ATMs in Europe. I did break down and sent for about $100 in euros two weeks ago--there are many different scenarios that could occur. Tim is confident that we will be able to get euros easily. We use charge cards most of the time anyway, but one does not charge a cup of coffee or other little things.

Tim is the best trip planner!

ITINERARY DETAILS

ITINERARY DETAILS

Right now it is snowing in Erie as we anticipate our Mediterranean and Transatlantic cruise Tuesday. A lot of snow is predicted for tomorrow, but we sure hope that it clears by Tuesday! 

We are leaving Erie at about 11 a.m. on Tuesday morning to fly to Cleveland then Newark. From Newark we will fly off to Barcelona about 7 p.m.

Europe’s time zone is six hours ahead of us, so if we arrive in Barcelona at about 10 a.m., it will really be about 4 a.m. in Erie. That’s important to remember since we are activating my cell phone and we don't want to wake anyone up in the middle of the night!!

Here is our itinerary:

DATE/2013	PORT OR AT SEA	TIME	PLANS
11-27/28	BARCELONA, SPAIN HOTEL PULITZER	ALL DAY!	GAUDI’S LA SAGRADA FAMILIA, WALK LAS RAMBLAS, EAT, AND RELAX
11-29	BOARD RUBY PRINCESS STATEROOM C218	BOARD BY 1 P.M. SHIP DEPARTS ABOUT 7 P.M.
11-30 (BRIAN’S BIRTHDAY)	TOULON, FRANCE	IN PORT 8 A.M. TO 6 P.M.	WE ARE GOING TO AIX EN PROVENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
12-1	LIVORNO, ITALY	IN PORT 7 A.M. TO 7 P.M.	WE ARE GOING TO FLORENCE ON OUR OWN FOR THE DAY
12-2	CIVITAVECCHIA, ITALY	IN PORT 7 A.M. TO 7 P.M.	ROME TOUR OF THE CATACOMBS AND SEVEN HILLS
12-3, 4, 5	AT SEA		RELAX!!
12-6	FUNCHAL, MADEIRA, PORTUGAL	8 A.M. TO 5 P.M.	TOUR ON OUR OWN
12-7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 (B1’S BIRTHDAY), 13	AT SEA		RELAX
12-14	FORT LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA	7 A.M.	FLY TO ERIE!

 

I am almost finished packing and my checked bag only weighs 33 pounds!!! I'm doing good! Tim's weighs 40.  My carry on and tote will be heavy because I am taking both the 10 inch laptop and my iPad, plus my DSLR camera and my Canon SX260. Technology!!

CELL PHONE: This time we are sure my phone will be operable in Europe. If we make calls while in port it will be $.99/minute. From the cruise ship the cost is $2.49/minute. We can send texts for $.50 each and receive texts for $.05 each. So now we can be reached and  it won't really cost that much! This cost is sure better than the $30/minute it cost when I lived in Aix in 1967-1968!!!

UPGRADE:
I have to say that TK is doing the happy dance today!! He got an upgrade email first thing this morning. Originally we were booked for an inside stateroom. That was fine with us really because we don't know what the weather will be and the cruise was so reasonably priced. NOW, we have a balcony stateroom!!! That is frosting on the cake to be colloquial!!

Now we are just finishing up some last minute details before we leave on this new adventure.