Sunday, November 4, 2012

BACK IN THE U.S.A.!!!

Saturday, November 3: Arrive Miami, Florida. Drive to Estero, Florida to visit Tom and Carol

Getting off the ship was fairly easy and we were hailing a cab by 9:20 a.m. The Avalanche was just where we left it at the Homewood Suites by the Miami Airport. Two hours later, phone calls to dear family made, a ride along Alligator Alley, and we were at Tom and Carol’s. I am always in awe at their ability to cook and they had prepared an all American dinner for us: chicken and biscuits, American mashed potatoes, tossed salad, and a homemade wonderful cheesecake a la Carol. 

It is good to be in America again for sure!

 

CARIBBEAN SUN!

Thursday, November 1, Friday, November 2. At sea.

Thursday—another day reading by the pool, sunny and warm. Truthfully TK is looking forward to Miami.  I haven’t done a transatlantic crossing since I was 20 years old, and TK crossed on a U.S. Navy cruiser from 1968-1972, so we did not know what it would be like at a different time in our life. I have enjoyed the Azores and St.Thomas, but I thought I would be happy reading for hours and hours on end.

Tonight we saw Legends in Concert (reservation—no cost). The featured “Legends” were Jimmy Buffet, Donna Summer, and Michael Jackson. The show was entertaining and the performers not only looked like the “Legend,” but they also sounded like them. No lip syncing.

Friday—Since this is our last full day on the Epic (20 days total), we had breakfast in “Taste.” I think we would have liked the passage better if we didn’t have to make reservations for any show we wanted to see. I understand the process because there are 3500-4000 people on the ship, but there is always a line to make the reservations. You can also make reservations on the TV, but the remote batteries are probably 2 years old and that makes for another slow process. TK made our reservations for Cirque Dreams (cost $35/pp) and Blue Man Group (no cost) before we left home, but we did not know what the other shows would be like.

I finished reading Shadow Zone by Iris and Roy Johansen.

Our cruise is certainly winding down. The Mediterranean cruise was exceptionally port intensive, but worth it. The transatlantic cruise was much lazier with endless days of sun and warmth, as well as extra hours (we set our clock back six hours over several days, so we really got extra sleep).  I don’t think we will do a transatlantic again.

We had dinner in the “Taste” dining room to say good bye to our favorite waiters, Kerwin Bucaya and Christian Lee. They are such nice young men.

ST. THOMAS IS FOR SHOPPING


Wednesday, October 31. St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands.

Happy Halloween! I wonder what B1 and B2 wore for Halloween. I also wonder what the weather will be for Trick or Treat!

We had to undergo U.S. Immigration in St.Thomas. In fact, everyone, including the crew had to go through immigration. For us, it was easy—we presented our U.S. passport and room key card and that was it. Our scheduled time was 7 a.m. and since it was so fast, we decided to get off the ship at that time. TK’s version will be different, but we were in downtown Charlotte Amalie by 7:30 a.m. He will say we were the only people there at that time. I told him to enjoy the sunshine, the quietude, and study the architecture. Even a cup of coffee in a small local coffee shop did not placate him. J  Anyway, we learned the shops don’t open until 8:40-9:00 a.m. I enjoyed the sun, the quiet, the architecture, and even the hen and her little brood in a patch of grass near the post office until the shops opened. Tim brooded.

We visit St. Thomas often enough that sales people are familiar to us. I love to visit the jewelry shops and see the depth of styles and the vast selection. Today there were 12,000 people in town from cruise ships. That is a powerful market. I found everything I was looking for and then some!

We had lunch at the Green Parrot restaurant as always. It looks out over the bay and we always get a window seat. Cheeseburgers are very good here!

We were back on the Epic by 4:30 p.m.

At dinner Kerwin Bucaya, our favorite waiter—from the Philippines, told us it took him 2 ½ hours to go through immigration. Since the ship is coming to the Caribbean from Europe, the U.S. checks carefully.

MORE DAYS AT SEA!

Friday, October 26-Tuesday, October 30: At sea

Friday---it was rainy and everyone else seemed restless. We are enjoying the restful days.  We did do the “Cruise Critic Cabin Crawl” and visited six staterooms with different configurations:  Inside cabin (more space to move around in than our previous large balcony), aft balcony, balcony for disabled, spa mini suite (a little bigger than our balcony, but we do not need a high sided bathtub), a studio (NCL is accommodating solo passengers with smaller rooms to meet the needs of a solo traveler and a special area for them to mingle with other solo travelers), and a haven 2 bedroom villa ($2000/pp on this cruise, $4000/pp for the Mediterranean Cruise—nice, with a shower and a separate bathtub overlooking the ocean, lots of room, but beyond our means)

Saturday—today was warm enough to enjoy the sun by the pool. TK has a cold.

Sunday—we spent time enjoying the sun. We are concerned about Hurricane Sandy which is nearing the U.S. Weather reports are sketchy and we decided to buy Internet minutes after all.

Sunday night we went to the “Second City” performance in the Comedy Club (reservation—no cost). We saw their “Overboard” show about cruise ship vacations. We thought the performers were quite funny and they definitely captured some humorous moments on cruise ships.

Monday—another day reading at the pool. Tim usually lounges in the pool.  I finished Pat Conroy’s Beach Music, a sweeping tale of life in the 60s in Charleston, South Carolina. Conroy also wrote Prince of Tides. I did not see the movie, so I think I will read that book!

Tuesday—another day reading at the pool. I finished reading The Good Guy by Dean Koontz. The captain said that the swells we are experiencing are a result of Hurricane Sandy. Because the Epic is so large with sufficient stabilizers, we do not feel the swells much. Tim played in the Cruise Critic Slot Pull. About 25 people paid $15 to participate and each player had 5 turns on a particular slot, the Wheel of Fortune. One man got a hit for $500. Others either hit for $0, $10, or $40. After everybody played, the pool was split between them. Tim got $30 back. Not bad.

We have enjoyed the little Irish pub on board, O’Sheehan’s.  Our favorite dishes are chicken fingers, artichoke dip and nachos appetizer, fried mozzarella sticks, chicken pot pie, fish and chips, meatloaf, and the burgers. Of course we do not eat here all the time, but it is a nice alternative. We never tried any of the restaurants that charge a fee, like Cagney’s (steak), Cucina’s (Italian), or the oriental restaurants. For me it is not about the food anyway.

Janie’s Take: I really don’t like the inability to communicate with family and friends. We decided to buy an Internet package, but the connection is so slow and the process is painful. I finally was able to hear from home though.

B1 and B2 would love the water slides on this ship!!

Friday, November 2, 2012

AZORES: VOLCANO CRATER LAKES, NATURAL BOILING SPRINGS, AND STEAM VENTS GALORE!



Thursday, October 25: Ponta Delgada, Azores. Tour the island.

Ponta Delgada is a city and municipality on the island of São Miguel in the archipelago of the Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal. Populated since 1444, the island has approximately 60,000 inhabitants. Portuguese is the official language.

The Archipelago of the Azores is composed of nine volcanic islands situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, and is located about  930 miles west of Lisbon and about 1200 miles southeast of Newfoundland. São Miguel is 2800 nautical miles from St.Thomas where we are headed and I want to look that distance up.  Mt. Pico (sp?) is the highest mountain, 7700 ft. (not sure if ft. or meters). The whole island was very clean. I also found out that the U.S. military base that uses our Medal of Honor character development program/curriculum is on the island Terceira, which is about 120 miles from São Miguel/30 minutes by airplane (cost $150).

The main industries are agriculture (pineapples, grapes, grain, sugar cane, flowers-particularly carnations), dairy farming (for cheese and butter products primarily), livestock ranching (chickens, rabbits, sheep, goats, hogs), fishing, and tourism, which is becoming the major service activity in the region.

Today was 68 F and partly cloudy. We were lucky since this lush island gets lots of rain. We did experience fog and wind and a little mist. Carmen, our beautiful port guide, met us outside the ship at 8:30 a.m. We toured with 3 other couples from Florida, Dallas, and Scotland. We really like these tours of 6 to 8 people, so much more personal than the cruise ship buses of 60.
 
We headed up the volcanic mountain to see Lagoa do Fogo (which I think means Fire Lake), a large lake in a volcano crater and many scenic views of the Atlantic Ocean. From there we traveled the countryside to a site where we walked to Caldeira Velha, natural boiling water in a small pool the size of a basketball court. Because of the geothermal properties of the island, this phenomenon is common.  Along the windy drive we saw blue, purple, and pink hydrangeas with flowers as big as soccer balls growing along the roadside. It was like we were in a lush rain forest without the humidity. Unique palm trees, sycamores, pine trees, cedar trees, tall grasses followed our path. We also saw many many fields of Holstein dairy cattle as well as beef cattle. At one point four cows were in our path, although Carmen said that is not common.
 
We stopped at a tea factory for a tour, Cha Porto Formosa. We viewed a video that showed the difference between orange pekoe (the first leaf on the stem—more caffeine, stronger taste), pekoe (the 2nd leaf—a little less caffeine, still sort of strong taste), and broken leaf (the rest of the leaves—less caffeine, mildest taste). We could see the small tea bushes on the property with delicate white flowers and a yellow center. After the small factory tour, we all sat for a cup of tea. The tea was nicely packaged and I bought the “Broken Leaf” for Mary Lou---the tea is loose and I am sure she has an infuser.
After Logoa das Furnas (another volcanic crater lake), we went to a hot springs (Posa da Beija) where people swim, a charming area. I waded into the pool and the temperature was divine. There are a series of such pools, one deeper than the other as you go further toward the cave that is the source of this spring. Others did swim, but we did not. After this stop, we found out that a small candy “factory” was nearby, so we went to see—it was a tiny kitchen and one employee was indeed making candy: caramels (more like caramel on crème brulee), and lemon, anise, honey drops nicely packaged. We all bought some!
We stopped at Restaurante Vale das Furnas/Buondi Caffe for an amazing lunch! Because of the hot steam that pours out of the earth, the Azoreans have devised a way to capitalize on this situation. Roast beef, pork ribs, blood sausage, pork sausage, carrots, kale, cabbage, potatoes, and sweet potatoes are placed in a pot that is lowered into a stone hole dug over a steam vent, covered, and left for six hours or so. Then the pot is removed and taken to the restaurant. Restaurants that use this method of cooking have their own stone holes in the hot steam area. This “Cozido das Furnas” has an unbelievably fantastic “background” taste because the steam is also infused with sulphur from the earth. Add special fluffy bread made today and mild fresh goat cheese made yesterday and you have the greatest feast! Reminiscent of the New England boiled dinner I am so fond of.

To top it off, Carmen took us to a magical forest where the steam holes are—trees with intertwining roots above ground, soft moss, careful steps, all open up to the barren muddy area of hot steam rolling out from the earth. The sound of the water boiling and bubbling like that is beyond describing.  I bet my brother would like the Azores!
Visiting São Miguel was an enlightening, mystical experience, the serenity, the lush foliage, the flowers, the vistas of crater lakes, and the Atlantic Ocean, all perfect. I asked Carmen about hurricanes in the Azores. She said that for hundreds of years and all the years she was growing up, there were no hurricanes until recently. The climate change has made a difference in the Azores and hurricanes now affect them frequently. 
We arrived back at Ponta Delgada with only a half hour to spare, so yet another fantastic port with barely enough time to buy any souvenirs. That has been a great disappointment for us me.
Back onboard the Epic we settled in again with prime rib extraordinaire.

DAYS AT SEA--BLUE MAN GROUP!


Tuesday, October 23—Wednesday, October 24:  At Sea:

I am writing today to the roar of the Atlantic Ocean. Master Captain Sverre Sovdsnes announced we were experiencing 9-12 ft. swells, but the ship is so stabilized that the effect is negligible.  I have attended two lectures on maritime history, specifically about Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson. TK has participated in a couple slot tournaments and trivia games.

Tuesday’s dinner at “Taste” was lobster tails. We are quite fond of waiters Kerwin and Christian of the Philippines and ask to be seated in their section.

 Wednesday (October 24) we went to a program about NCL’s newest ship to be introduced May 2013. No more separate toilet and shower modules with the sink in the main cabin area. Thank goodness. The ship is a little smaller than the Epic and looks very glorious.

We had reservations for the Blue Man Group in the Epic Theater tonight. I had no preconceived notion of what the performance would be like. I really liked the upbeat music, rock sometimes edging toward heavy metal and the humor of non verbal communication. Three men with blue faces and black clothing basically mimed their way through an hour and a half of engaging and humorous entertainment with grace, fluidity, and inquisitive stares. Tim said they reminded him of aliens. Throwing and blowing bright neon yellow, orange, and purple paint added a dimension to audience participation. Fortunately we were four rows back from the stage and missed the paint. Toward the end of the performance the Blue Men started rolls of paper in the back for the audience to toss all the way to the front. The whole audience was tangled in rolls and rolls of toilet paper.  I would do this again. I could definitely imagine son Randy really liking such a performance, as well as our little girls.

Note about the Blue Man Group: On Friday, the 26th, I went to a Meet and Greet with the Blue Man Group and their chief musician. I learned that originally the “Blue Man Group” performed as “happenings” in the streets/public spaces of New York City in the late 80s. They felt like outsiders in the cultural world and wanted to add something new and exciting.  By 1991 the Blue Man Group had its first actual theater show. Today there are fewer than 100 “actors” trained for the BMG by the original group and they perform all over the world.  There are four BMG men onboard the Epic in case something happens to one, another can take his place. The musicians are equally accomplished. Each year thousands audition for BMG and only 3-4 make it. There is one female Blue Man. The BMG onboard have performed in Las Vegas, London, NYC, and Boston, as well as the Epic—the only cruise ship with this performance.

The men said that the blue paint they use on their faces is oil base with the consistency of nutella and takes less than 45 minutes to apply. The performance is physically demanding. They practice daily onboard the ship. In one of the “skits,” a Blue Man catches 32 marshmallows in his mouth, one at a time. That is practiced daily and they said it is easy once one practices a lot. Other “skits” require that the BMG squirt yellow, orange, or purple paint out of their mouths.  They said the paint is nontoxic but they try not to swallow it. Another skit has a gross looking substance spurting out of their chests. They would not reveal what this substance is, but said it is edible.

The Epic Theater has a special stage for gripping, not slipping, made just for the BMG, so it can be power washed. I am glad I went to the Meet and Greet to learn more about this incredible show and the performers.

TRANSATLANTIC SAILING AHEAD!

Sunday, October 21-Monday, October 22   Arrive Barcelona, Set sail for the Azores.

I spent most of Sunday before Sail Away getting our stateroom changed to a better configuration. Finally we were moved to #14016: the toilet module and the shower module are on either side of the entry door, then the closet is opposite a sofa, then the queen size bed is opposite the counter with 2 ft. clearance, and then the sliding door to the balcony. Believe it or not, this configuration is much better with no more ballet by TK.

Sunday night we went to “Cirque Dreams and Dinner.” While dinner was served (filet mignon and shrimp) acrobats performed amazing and colorful aerial acts just in front of us. There were also balancing acts—2 men balanced on a tube with a board on top of it. They added a stool to the board, balanced on that, and then another stool on top of that, all the while jumping and dancing and turning so both sides of the audience could see their act. Another act was a lady and man roller skating and performing on a surface about 72 inches in diameter. In between acts performers changed clothes in probably 2 seconds, a male or female performer lifted a tube over himself/herself and let it down, and presto! They had on different clothes, a tux, a gown, a complete change. How that was done, I do not know!

Today, Monday, we finally got to sleep in. At 11 a.m. we went to the Cruise Critic Meet and Greet. At least 100 people were there, mostly from the States or Great Britain. Ship’s Officers were there to introduce themselves, a friendly crew.

At 7:00 p.m. we went through the Straits of Gibraltar. Tim was on Gibraltar several times for shore leave with the Navy in 1968-1972. We did not see the apes that populate the island, but I could see a village and several towers. The eastern cliff of the island is sheer rock. I enjoyed seeing this “gateway” to the Atlantic for the first time. From our balcony we could see villages in Algeria and Morocco. Tonight we gain an hour—fantastic!!

Aside to B1 and B2: I don’t think that I mentioned that this ship has three huge waterslides. NCL (Norwegian Cruise Lines) is trying to have the best waterslides in the industry, on land and sea.

TK and Janie Takes: For whatever reason, people on this ship do not seem to lock toilet doors in the public restrooms. This oversight is rampant! Sadly, we have surprised many people.

 

MY BELOVED AIX! AND A YANKEE DOODLE!

Saturday, October 20: Marseille. Tour Aix en Provence--my city

Aix-en-Provence (usually simply called Aix) is a small, classically Provençal town, famous for being home to Cezanne. With a population of 143,000, Aix boasts three universities and several French-language schools for international students to produce a very strong student presence.

Aix has always been a rich city. There is a high contrast between Marseille (only 30 km and half an hour away). Whereas Marseille is one the poorest French cities, Aix is perhaps one of the richest. As in all Provençal towns, the city center consists of narrow streets, lined with interesting buildings from 17th century hotels to paved plazas.

I will always love the Cours Mirabeau, a wide street planted with double rows of sycamore trees and decorated by fountains in the middle of the street. It follows the line of the old city wall and divides the town into two sections. The new town extends to the south and west; the old town, with its wide but irregular streets and its old mansions dating from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, lies to the north. Banks line one side of the street and on the other side are cafés and the Monoprix (a department store with a grocery store in the basement now and when I lived in Aix). One café is the Deux Garçons, the most famous brasserie in Aix. Built in 1792, it has been frequented by the likes of Paul Cézanne, Émile Zola, Ernest Hemingway, and MaryJane Phillips Koenig.

 I told the tour guide that we would meet them back at the designated area, that we would tour by ourselves. As soon as we got off the tour bus, we headed to a café for strong French coffee and a restroom at Le Cézanne. When I am in Aix, I feel completely at home. Aix is a beautiful old friend that I will never forget.  We strolled along the Cours Mirabeau to 46 Rue Manuel, where I lived from August to November 1967. I did not have the exact address in 2008 and could not find it. Today I understood why I could not find it because the exterior had been changed. It was a 12th century stone building and though not unusual for Aix, it was unusual for me in 1967! I moved to another apartment after November 1967.

From there we walked to a luscious fruit and vegetable market near the Palais de Justice. I took Tim to another market area, showed him the Hotel de Ville (City Hall), the 12th century clock tower that I passed on my way to school every day,  St. Saveur where I attended Mass on Sundays, and then my school. I doubt that any of this was what Tim expected, but I was home. The many streets, the alleys, the small stores, the patisseries, the boulangers, the papeterie, the cafés, all home. I showed him the post office we used all the time, too. All still there!

We took another break and stopped at Le Grillon for coffee and a Coca Cola Light. The bathroom was up the winding stairs. I have never seen an automatic flush toilet, but now I have. It is just like the hand towels, one waves a hand over the sensor, and Voila! The toilet flushes!

 We only had a half hour more so we headed back to the bus area. I purchased something fun for B1 and B2 on the Cours Mirabeau, something I am sure they can use and something they will never see in the U.S. The busy Tabac where I made the purchase sold lottery tickets and I doubt they expected to sell the two items I bought to an American. Inside the store I met an elderly gentleman who asked me if I were British. I told him I was American and he brightened up and told me that he was a translator with the U.S. Army in World War II. He told me he was captured by the Germans and held as a prisoner of war. He asked me if I was a Yankee Doodle or a Dixie. I told him we were Yankees and he sang Yankee Doodle Dandy to our delight. I truly loved this experience in my Aix.

With regret I left Aix behind and we returned to the Epic. We will arrive in Barcelona tomorrow, but I don’t think we will get off the ship. We will have days and days to recuperate from the extremely intense schedule of visiting ports every day for 8-9 hours. Today was a short port day. I do think about the people who return to the States tomorrow and go back to work on Monday or Tuesday.

The day was sunny and warm.

VIVE LA FRANCE!

Friday, October 19: Cannes, France. Tour Cannes, Nice, Monaco, Eze, etc.

We had early tender tickets to get into Cannes with Kelly, David, Earnest, April, Debbie, and Barb. Our tour was with www.rivierapremiumtour.com and Victor picked us up on schedule. Off we “flew” to Nice in a comfortable van, not far away. The weather was sunny and warm.

Cannes, located in the French Riviera, absolutely sparkled as we drove through.  It is a busy tourist destination and host of the annual Cannes Film Festival. The city is also famous for its various luxury shops, restaurants, and hotels. We saw plenty of that on our way back through to the ship.

Nice is a special city with beautiful geography. Culturally and architecturally enriched over time, today Nice has become a truly cosmopolitan tourist destination. The spectacular natural beauty of the Nice area and its mild Mediterranean climate came to the attention of the English upper classes in the second half of the 18th century. The city’s main seaside promenade, the Promenade des Anglais (‘the Walkway of the English’) owes its name to the earliest visitors to the resort. The area has been of particular appeal to some of Western culture’s most outstanding painters, such as Marc Chagall and Henri Matisse. We stopped to see the world renowned Nice flower market and then Tim and I quickly walked to the beach and gathered a quart plastic bag full of green, turquoise, clear, and amber beach glass! My slacks got soaked from the warm Mediterranean, but I loved it! Tim was not quite so pleased with wet shoes.

We visited the Fragonard perfume shop near Eze—a little tour of how perfume is made and then a “smell” test. This was my 3rd visit to Fragonard. I bought a luxurious royal jelly face cream. No more wrinkles!

We traveled on to Eze, 1,401 feet above sea level on the French Mediterranean. It's so high that the Catholic church (Notre Dame de l’Assomption built in 1764) can be seen from very far away. The Phoenicians came to the location first, but now it is known as a medieval town, perched so high with narrow cobblestone streets and passages.

We traveled along the Middle Corniche and passed familiar towns, like Cap d’Ail, Cap Ferrat, St. Paul de Vence, Villefranche (Tim remembered this port from his U.S. Navy days), and other villages I visited during my year in France.

Monaco/Monte Carlo was another stop. Tim and I had lunch at Tatti’s—coucous with chicken, tomato and lettuce salad, pomme tarte, éclair, and Coke Zero for 25 Euros (about $33). We sat outside and observed the afternoon lunch crowd. Couscous was my favorite dish in France, especially cooked by the two ladies with whom I lived in 1968.

Our group went to the casino area. We sat there for a while to observe the cars, Porsches, Bentleys, BMWs, Ferraris, a ’58 Buick, all between the Hotel de Paris and the Casino. We took a peek at the majestic casino area—white marble, tall ceilings, golden features. Very posh.

This evening we had a celebratory dinner onboard the Epic at “Taste” with David and Kelly Sias (Huntington Beach, California) and April and Earnest Coker (Dallas, Texas). They are returning home on Sunday. We have become good friends since Barcelona. We had a good laugh at how we met so early in the morning, Cokers just flying in and all of us exhausted last Saturday.  Both couples are in their 40s.

We strolled around the ship and then returned to the stateroom to get ready for Marseille/Aix!

Janie’s Take: I sure do miss our family!

A LEANING TOWER AND THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE RENAISSANCE


A LEANING TOWER AND THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE RENAISSANCE!

Thursday, October 18: Livorno, Italy. Tour Florence and Pisa.

We met Kelly, David, Lance, Lori, Barb, and Debbie at 7:30 a.m. for another full day with romeinlimo. Today our skillful romeinlimo driver was Gianmaria (John). We drove through Tuscany, past U.S. Army Base, Camp Darby, a memory from my year in France. That story is definitely for another day! The day was sunny and warm.

Pisa, only about ½ hour from the ship, is a city in Tuscany, Central Italy, on the River Arno. Pisa is known worldwide for its leaning tower (the bell tower of the city's cathedral), with an unintended tilt to one side. The bell tower was begun in 1173 and completed in 1319. The city of over 88,000 residents (around 200,000 with the metropolitan area) contains more than 20 other historic churches, several palaces, and various bridges across the River Arno. Today the tower has been fortified underground so it is not in danger of collapsing. The marble on the cathedral, the baptistery, and the bell tower has been cleaned archivally and is again the purest of white. In 1967, my first visit, the tower was almost black from the atmosphere of the ages.

Florence is the most populous city in Tuscany, with approximately 370,000 inhabitants, expanding to over 1.5 million in the metropolitan area.  A centre of medieval European trade and finance and one of the wealthiest cities of the time, Florence is considered the birthplace of the Renaissance, and has been called the Athens of the Middle Ages. A turbulent political history includes periods of rule by the powerful Medici family, and numerous religious and republican revolutions.

First we viewed the city from atop a hill—where we could see the Duomo, the Baptistery, Giotto’s tower, Ponte Vecchia, and other historic sites. Then John took us downhill to the city by van to see the Duomo (major cathedral of Florence [Firenze]). I particularly wanted to see Ghiberti’s Doors of Paradise, spectacular images in bronze on a huge door of the Baptistery. The original is now inside the Cathedral.

We also visited Ponte Vecchia where I had a chance to buy jewelry, and marketplace. We had lunch in ______. Both TK and I had lasagna with meat—very good. The pasta in the restaurants we have visited in Italy has been handmade, and so very good!!

 
We finished with strawberry and cheesecake gelato for me and chocolate and hazelnut gelato for TK at Gelateria La Carraia (near another bridge on the Arno—Piazza N. Sauro—www.lacarriagroup.eu), the best gelateria in Florence, John told us.

Florence is a wonderful cultural center in Italy, full of museums and public art, as well as sophisticated shopping!

We were very tired on the hour ride back to the ship. We went right to O’Sheehan’s for dinner and then watched the ship depart from Livorno. Writing, then to bed again tonight!

 TK’s Take: He likes the highways in Europe. He isn’t crazy about the plumbing. There are not too many public restrooms and when we do find one, it costs ½ euro (about $.75)

Janie’s Take: Toilet paper in Europe has improved immensely since the 1960s!

 

Thursday, November 1, 2012

THREE COINS IN THE FOUNTAIN!

Wednesday, October 17: Civitavecchia/Rome, Italy. Tour Rome-Coliseum, Vatican, etc.

We agree that romeinlimo has been the best tour company!   Today our driver Marco picked us up at the ship with new friends, Kelly and David and April and Earnest, and Janel and her husband. We drove for an hour from Civitavecchia to Rome in heavy, crazy traffic. Today was sunny and warm.

The Pantheon--- Our first stop was the Pantheon, a temple built to honor the Roman gods. It was consecrated as a Christian church in 609 AD. Because of this circumstance, it is extremely well-preserved with marble and granite throughout, Corinthian columns, and a bronze door. The dome, over 130 feet from the floor, is open to the sky. The Pope says Mass here once a year. One Cruise Critic friend told us she came to Mass here a couple years ago when it was raining. When rain falls into the temple/church, they call it the Tears of Diana. She said the sun shone through the rain creating a spectacular sight. She also said we can’t see the small holes in the marble floor which act as a drain for the water.

The Spanish Steps (Piazza di Spagna) is a masterpiece of the 18th century built only to connect a church on a hill with a fountain below. It has been a popular meeting spot for 200 years. Tim and I walked down the marble steps---quite steep.

The Trevi Fountain was inspired by Roman triumphal arches and is the largest and most famous Baroque fountain in Rome (standing 80 ft. high and 62 ft. wide). Appropriately for a fountain resembling a stage set, the theatrical Trevi Fountain has been the star of many films shot in Rome, including romantic films such as "Three Coins in a Fountain" and "Roman Holiday", as well as "La dolce vita," Federico Fellini's satire of Rome in the 1950s. Tradition has it that a coin thrown over the left shoulder into the water guarantees a visitor's return to Rome. Tim and I plan to return to Rome because we each threw three coins over our left shoulder. Throwing the coins already worked for me twice!

Circus Maximus—was used for chariot racing and is considered the largest building every put up for entertainment purposes. It could accommodate 300,000 spectators. I don’t think that many people go to the Super Bowl! Marco said it is still used today for concerts and other large events, but it is only a great lawn in an oval deep bowl shape.

The Roman Coliseum, originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, was commissioned in AD 72 by Emperor Vespasian. It was completed by his son, Titus, in 80 AD, with later improvements by Domitian. The Coliseum is located just east of the Roman Forum. Its 80 arched entrances allowed easy access to 55,000 spectators, who were seated according to rank. The Coliseum is huge, an ellipse 610 ft. long and 500 ft. wide. We could see the Arch of Constantine from the Coliseum. We easily sensed the grandeur of this site.

The Roman Forum-we drove by the Forum ruins, inspiring even in a drive by. It was the commercial, religious, political, and legal center of the city.

We enjoyed lunch at Pontificio—spaghetti pomodoro for me and tortellini with peas in a cream sauce for TK. I love homemade pasta. The tomato sauce was exquisite, almost creamy.

Our tour company had easy access for entering the Vatican, but we had to show photo ID and go through security like at an airport. Beautiful Francesca was our guide for the Vatican and our first stop was the Sistine Chapel.

Vatican City (Citta del Vaticano) was built over the tomb of Saint Peter. The Vatican's position as a sovereign state within a state was guaranteed by the Lateran Treaty of 1929. When one enters St. Peter's Square, one immediately sees St. Peter's Basilica, the center of Christianity.

The Sistine Chapel

In the 1960s I was not allowed into the Vatican or Sistine Chapel because my skirt was too short. In 2008 the Sistine Chapel was closed because it was a religious holiday the day that I visited. TODAY, I finally saw the Sistine Chapel. It is so inspiring---this is where the Conclave of Cardinals is locked in when they vote for the next Pope. We stood for some time to try to absorb the beauty and the reverence of this place.

From information provided to us: “Michelangelo (1475 -1564) climbed a scaffold in 1508 to begin the painting of the Sistine Chapel ceiling for Pope Julius II (pontificate 1503 -1513). At thirty-three years of age Michelangelo was the most gifted and sought after sculptor in all of Europe. It was Pope Julius II who upon seeing Michelangelo's Pieta in St. Peter’s early in 1505, ordered that the young sculptor come to Rome and work for his holiness.”


 The fresco is higher and smaller than I imagined—perhaps it is very large, and the distance to the ceiling is so great that it appears small, yet so majestic. Words cannot express what I felt when I saw Michelangelo’s depiction of the Creation.


Francesca guided us deftly and we peeked through a keyhole in a very large 10 foot high door to see the walkway of the Pope from the Sistine Chapel to his apartments. We could see the Swiss Guard through the keyhole, too. This was another highlight of our tour!


We walked to St. Peter’s Basilica which has 44 altars and the most significant art, including Michelangelo’s Pieta, one of the single most important sculptures of Christianity. Michelangelo’s vision for this work was beyond imagination, art for all time. He was 24 years old when he created this sculpture. The Basilica is recognized as the largest and most grandiose sacred building in existence. The tomb of St. Peter is under the Basilica. Francesca told us about the Relics of Saints and their statues in the Basilica, St. Andrew, St. Helena, St. Veronica, and St. Longinus. The scope of the Basilica is amazing.

The return ride to Civitavecchia and the Epic took a little over an hour. We had dinner at O’Sheehan’s, TK had a burger and I had chicken pot pie. Delicious. After dinner we returned to the stateroom, got ready for Livorno, wrote the blog, and went to bed exhausted.

The towel animal tonight was an elephant with TK’s sunglasses.

BARCELONA TO NAPLES--THE POWER OF PASTA


Sunday, October 14: Board NCL Epic, Room 10243

Monday, October 15: At Sea

Norwegian Cruise Lines Epic is 1081 ft. in length, the beam is 133 ft. The ship has the capacity for 4100 passengers with 1753 crew members. On board entertainment includes the Blue Man Group, Second City, and Cirque Dreams, as well as other standard entertainment like comedians, musicals, and a magician, etc.

After a short $25 taxi ride to the port, we boarded the mighty Epic with hardly a line to wait in. A remarkable feat when one considers 4100 passengers were boarding.

Our stateroom, #10243, will take some getting used to. The room layout is not conducive to people who are not small. The queen bed is 18 inches from the counter/wall. The ship’s designer decided to put the toilet on one side of the entrance door and the shower on the other side of the door. Then, the sink is in the aforementioned long counter across from our bed. I doubt anyone can picture this from my description, but picture Tim and I leaping over the bed past the other and not killing each other over the next 20 days. The crew claims Europeans love this layout. However, no future NCL ships will be designed this way.

The ship left Barcelona about 6 p.m. on Sunday. It was sunny and about 75 F during the day. We had dinner in the Manhattan dining room with new friends from the Air Berlin flight, Esther and Clayton. Clayton is a retired Miami-Dade firefighter.  Lobster, grouper, and true Spanish seafood paella, a regional specialty, were on the menu. I enjoyed lobster, Tim the paella.

TK’s Takes for Sunday: The toilet placement in the stateroom is terrible. The live music in the dining room is way too loud for conversing while dining. He loves our new packing concept—packing cubes. All we had to do was move our cubes of clothes to the closets.

Janie’s Take: One more thing about the Hotel Pulitzer, the bathtub was very high to step into. There is no shower curtain, nor sliding glass door. A swinging glass door extends half the length of the tub and swings out—there are no grab bars and this door seems very unsafe. And, it does not prevent water from going onto the floor while showering.

We explored the ship, unpacked, and went to bed.

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Monday morning we awakened to room service/croissants, fresh melon, and European coffee (which, by the way, could be used to clean kitchen floors, it is so strong). Since it is a sea day, we did not rush to go anywhere and the weather was cool and cloudy. Our Cruise Critic “Meet and Greet” was in Fat Cats Lounge. Many officers, including the Captain, came to the gathering.

We passed the Strait of Bonifacio that separates the islands of Corsica and Sardinia about 1 p.m. The weather was sunny and warm at that time, but returned to cool and cloudy. The Mediterranean is not very rough with gentle waves. Other than the islands we can see no land. I did sit on the balcony and finished reading Neanderthal by John Darnton. I recommend this book.

Dinner in the “Taste” dining room was grilled Latin style sirloin steak with chimichurri sauce. Both Tim and I think it was almost the best steak we have ever had. I have the feeling that garlic and butter contributed to the taste.

Early bedtime---tomorrow Pompeii!!

TK’s takes for Monday: He saw on a TV factoid that 500 million snails are consumed in France each year. He also read that 500 pounds of rice are served every day on this ship.

Tuesday, October 16: Naples, Italy. Tour Pompeii, Sorrento, and Positano

We met our romeinlimo tour driver, Raffaello, right off the ship at 7:30 a.m. in Naples. Our group of 8 quickly gathered and we drove off for the Amalfi coast. We could see Isle of Capri not far away from the coast. Mt. Vesuvius was in the distance too. We stopped for a quick taste of extra virgin olive oil at a small olive oil factory. Then we continued on to Positano driving on hairpin curves with steep cliffs on the side. Vespa drivers felt no fear and passed everything in sight on the center white line dividing cars, buses, and trucks going in both directions. Positano is built on cliffs and is quite intriguing, strictly an expensive tourist town. The streets are very very narrow with no sidewalks and one walks in the street to shop.

To add to the atmosphere, our driver played a CD of Italian music sung by Dean Martin, Bobby Darin, Michael Buble, Doris Day, and the 3 Tenors. He also sang Italian songs for us.

Our next stop was Sorrento where our driver said the specialty was making mozzarella. We dined at Rossi’s—the best Caprese salad we have ever had-the mozzarella was so creamy, almost buttery. If only we had such mozzarella state side! I dipped my pizza slice in the fresh olive oil. TK had spaghetti carbonara-he said the spaghetti was truly al dente. There was shopping in Sorrento, but my main objective was to find a protective film for the display glass of my DSLR because it cracked unexpectedly on Sunday.  Thankfully the camera still shoots. Mission accomplished.

POMPEII, Italy

After Sorrento we headed for Pompeii, a truly amazing site that I only dreamed of ever seeing. The Mt. Vesuvius eruption that destroyed the original city occurred in AD 79.  We learned that the volcano erupted again in 1944. Because we planned on renting audiotapes, we did not hire a guide. The audiotape opportunity fell through and we were basically on our own with little information. The site is not marked much and it is much larger than we anticipated. I took plenty of photos and saw some unique things, and I bought a very good book about Pompeii. We have a reason to return! It is evident that the citizens of Pompeii had good skills and a unique sense of community. The Roman male with status had great privileges not extended to the women, children, or slaves.

The structures, whether homes, columns, forum, amphitheater, all were meticulously constructed. Streets were made of large flat stones.

One-day tickets to enter the area are €11 per adult—about $14.00.

Pompeii was so much bigger than I expected and so amazing. Things we saw:

  • The amphitheatre. This is in the most easterly corner of the excavated area, near the Sarno Gate entrance. It was completed in 80 BC, measures 135 x 104 meters, and could hold about 20,000 people. It is the earliest surviving permanent amphitheatre in Italy and one of the best preserved anywhere. It was used for gladiator battles, other sports and spectacles involving wild animals.
  • The Great Palaestra (Gymnasium). This occupies a large area opposite the Amphitheatre. The central area was used for sporting activities and there was a pool in the middle. On three sides are lengthy internal porticos or colonnades.

  • Forum. This was the center of public life, although it is now to the southwest of the excavated area. It was surrounded by many of the important government, religious and business buildings.
  • Temple of Apollo. This is to the north of the Basilica on the western side of the Forum. It has the oldest remains discovered, with some, including Etruscan items, dating back to 575 BC, although the layout we saw today was later than that.
  • Theatre. Theatre built in the hollow of a hill for acoustic advantage; it seated 5,000
  • Via dei Sepolcri (street of tombs) A long street with worn ruts from carts.
  • Lupanar An ancient brothel with pornographic frescoes over the entrance to each room, presumably indicating the services offered.  Even allowing for the smaller size of ancient Romans, the beds (stone) seemed rather small.
  • Street There are tracks for the carriages in the street for a smoother ride. There are also stone blocks that stick up in the middle of the street for pedestrians to step onto to cross the street. The sidewalks are higher than the modern sidewalk because the streets had water and waste flowing through them. The stone blocks in the street were also as high as the sidewalk, so people did not walk in the waste and water. The stone blocks were also used for what we would call speed bumps. When the carriages were going through the city, they were going fast. To avoid people from getting splashed by the water and waste they had stone blocks in the street. This would make the driver slow down when they were speeding, so they could get through the blocks.

TK’s takes: Raffaello, our driver, reminded Tim of the detective on CSI. He was amazed at the quality of the food, e.g. the spaghetti, the mozzarella, the tomatoes (even the tomatoes were very special) The towel animal tonight was a bunny rabbit.