Sunny, high 50s/ casting off from Civitavecchia
Early
this sunny, but windy morning we met our six tour mates, from Texas, Georgia,
and Florida, for the tour in Rome. To our dismay we learned it was so windy the
ship could not dock safely. Two hours later, the captain and the port pilot
decided to dock, much to our relief!
Despite
our late arrival, our RomeInlimo driver Stefano was waiting for us and drove rapidly to Rome. At least one of our
companions was a wreck about this rapid ride of usually an hour and a half
drive that took one hour!
After
a little circle of the Coliseum, the Forum, and the Arch of Triumph, we drove
toward the Seven Hills of Rome. I
always thought the hills were far from the center of Rome, but now I realize
that they are only just past the outside walls surrounding old Rome. We passed
three of the Seven Hills/Aventine, Palatine,
and Esquiline on the way to the Catacombe di San Callisto. Six of us
descended with our English speaking guide about 30+ feet underground, 53 steps
to the 3rd level of the catacombs. At least two levels were below us.
The
first stop was an area where early Christians worshipped and near where three
popes were buried. Forty six popes were actually buried here, from 155 A.D. to
the 4th century A.D. San
Callisto is the largest of all 67 Roman catacombs. Five hundred thousand
people were buried at San Callisto in the first 4 centuries A.D. All bones have
been removed now, either very early as relics, or more recently for
protection. The catacombs were not
rediscovered until the mid-1800s. Every day, priests visit with groups and
conduct Mass in underground areas of the catacombs
The catacombs were completely dry, not dank as others told me they might be. As we walked along the dark and winding corridors, we could see the horizontal spaces where individuals were buried in volcanic rock that could easily be dug out. Generally, spaces were made as one died, not ahead of time. Some families did make plans ahead of time and had “rooms” where the immediate family would be buried. Other families had larger rooms for extended family and that family would use the room for worship. Every so many feet there was a crevice for an oil lamp. Early Christian drawings and frescoes could be seen in some areas. What a powerful, spiritual experience this visit was.
The
guide said that early Christians did not hide the fact that they were
Christians. Formerly it was believed they prayed in the catacombs secretly. As
our guide said, with so much excavation, every Roman would know what was going
on.
When
we left the catacombs, Stefano drove about 40 feet on the true Appian Way, rounded cobble stones about
the size of a two fists, and very bumpy. He showed us the chariot marks and
told us not to tell the RIL company he drove the car on it.
By
1 p.m. we were all hungry, so Stefano took us to L’Insalata Ricca Ristorante on Piazza Albania (www.linsalataricca). I had sumptuous Gnocchi di potato, potato
gnocchi with tomato sauce and ricotta cheese. TK enjoyed Tortellini with
zucchini and shrimp. The bread was as light as angel food cake. The whole meal
was a culinary delight and cost 21 €. Others had crepes, pizza, and salads.
Note:
I don’t have easy access to the Internet, so I cannot verify all the
information and spellings. I interpreted our guides’ words as best I could at
this time. Since we have three sea days, I am going to save the rest of Rome
for another day. How blessed we were to see such wonders. And I sure am glad
that I studied Latin!!!
TK’s: He said he wouldn’t last long driving in Rome—he would either be under arrest or in the hospital.
Today
the Pope was meeting with Prime Minister of Israel and there was a very high
level of security in Rome.
For tomorrow….
-
Pope’s Cathedral / San Giovanni in Lateran
- Chiesa San Stefano Rotonde
- Santa Maria Maggiore and the archeological research underground open only by special arrangement, best preserved of the city’s 4 major early Christian basilcas, built around 400 A.D., with additional chapels built in the 16th and 17th century. The campanile (dome) is the highest in the city.
- Gelato near Cemetery of the English killed in WW II, 9000 Americans killed and buried in American Cemetery
- St. Paul’s
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