Monday, November 7, 2022

AIX-EN-PROVENCE WELCOMES ME HOME!

AIX-EN-PROVENCE WELCOMES ME HOME!
Toulon, France
Aboard Regal Princess
Stateroom C512
Monday, November 7, 2022
Sunny, 70F


TK's beautiful sunrise over the Mediterranean at Toulon

French Navy across from our ship

The hour ride on the bus from Toulon to Aix seemed like it took forever, I couldn’t wait to walk those streets again.  The ride was familiar, the cypress trees, the yellow, red tiled roofs, glimpses of the Mediterranean and yachts in port, the perched villages high on hilltops, the limestone mountains, olive trees, grape vineyards, palm trees, and finally Mont St. Victoire (the mountain that Paul Cezanne painted over 80 times, the mountain I could see out my window each day). We were there! The guide was fine with us separating from the group tour when I explained that I had lived there. He told us to meet the group at 3 p.m. by the statue of Roi Rene. I knew exactly where that was, I passed it on my way to school and “home” every day.

Our first stop was the Institute for American Universities where I attended my junior year of college. The building where our classrooms were is now only additional classroom space. We were directed to the new office building located at 8, rue de Littera, about a half block away.  We were greeted by Dr. Leigh Smith, Dean, and several students. Dr. Smith was happy to speak with an alumna from so long ago—1967-1968. There are 170 American students there this semester and 240 will be attending next semester—we had about 100 in our class.  It was great sharing some memories of my time at IAU, at the time affiliated with the University of Aix-Marseille. Now the IAU offers a 4-year degree, as well as summer, semester, and year long studies. 

Janie at IAU/The American College of the Mediterranean

 Leigh was generous with his time and stories, but after a brief chat, TK and I were on our way.  There were so many places I wanted to see again. Ironically, a Netflix movie was being filmed, The Nun 2, a sequel to The Nun, and both of these films are a “prequel” to The Conjuring.  This is a series I have not even thought of watching.  Our path was blocked briefly.

Leigh Smith, Dean of IAU, Janie, and TK

Aside to my dear friend Judy from Nebraska (now Florida), my "partner in crime" in Europe: Leigh was very intrigued about our story of meeting Marc Chagall at Fondation Maeght and his signing a print for two American girls who spoke French. He asked if he could share the story with students now. Of course!!

From the Internet:  Here’s the The Nun 2 plot synopsis: “1956 – France. A priest is murdered. An evil is spreading. The sequel to the worldwide smash hit THE NUN follows SISTER IRENE as she once again comes face to face with the demonic force VALAK – THE DEMON NUN.  

Guess who has watched The Conjuring? Yep, TK.

Filming Nun 2

Filming Nun 2
After a brief hold up for the filming, we continued to Cours Mirabeau, the main street of Old Aix and used the ATM to get more euros.  The old city has changed a lot and I think I would describe it as like a huge quaint outdoor mall—there are so many boutiques, women and men’s clothing shops, bookstores, shoe stores, children’s clothing stores, jewelry shops, cosmetics stores (all of these are mostly French vendors, but Lush, Apple, Swatch, and other stores are there too).  Small restaurants were everywhere.

 

Flower Shop

Bakery/Boulalngerie

Breads at a market


Boulangerie

Calissons shop

Fruits and vegetables

There used to be a bakery, pastry shop, candy shop, butcher shop, and “mom and pop” grocery store about every other block, but no more. It was disappointing to see so few bakeries and pastry shops, but the larger grocery stores are in the suburbs and people are certainly more mobile. According to the tour guide we left behind, Aix is a college town with as many as 50,000 students with three universities and many smaller colleges. We saw students lining up at the pizza shops.

 

Pizza!

After walking on just about every street in the old city, we stopped for lunch at COLDE (pronounced cold) and sat outside. Just for future reference, a Croque Monsieur is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich with a slice of cheese melted on top, too—that sounded good to me. TK had avocado toast. Both came with a salad and tasty crisp fries. Coke Zero is prevalent and an easy choice.  By the way, a Croque Madame is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich with a fried egg inside—Both of these sandwiches are easy choices.

 

TK at Colde

Believe it or not, there was a shop that sold only jams and jellies. There was a wall of jams/jellies labeled “Red Fruits of Spring,” “Yellow Fruits of Spring,” and also divided by colors: Fruits of Summer, Fruits of Autumn, and so on—strawberry, rhubarb, quince, orange, and so many more. Another wall was devoted to jams for cheeses, another section was jams for meats. This would be a culinary delight for someone!

 

Cours Mirabeau
Considered one of the most beautiful streets in Europe

A fountain in the middle of Cours Mirabeau

The Fountain of the 3 Graces, at the 
opposite end of  Cours Mirabeau

Roi Rene
One end of Cours Mirabeau
Cours Mirabeau is about 6-7 blocks long

Too soon it was time to gather at the statue of Roi Rene. In case you wanted to know, King Rene was born in 1409 and was Count of Provence, Duke of Anjou, Bar, and Lorraine, and King of Jerusalem and Sicily. Born into a family of kings and dukes, his life encompassed the conquest of Normandy by Henry V and its reconquest by Charles VII. His sister was married to Charles the VII of France and his daughter married Henry VI of England—that is the short version!

On the way to the bus area, I spotted the 2nd apartment I lived in—I have returned to Aix four times, but this is the first time I found the building, near the Hotel Roi Rene and the Fountain of the Four Dolphins!

 

My apartment building for part of the year in Aix

Fountain of the Four Dolphins

Back on the ship we were both exhausted. We had a light dinner in the dining room-I had 3 appetizers (pineapple with dates and mascarpone, pear and mango soup, and split pea soup).  Delicious! TK had pork cutlets.

I am disappointed that TK's photos did not arrive in my email yet--slow Internet.  Be sure to check Aix tomorrow because he took some great ones--sunrise, French Navy!

Now to get ready for Florence!

 

TK’s Takes: TK is not as charmed by Aix as I am.   He mentioned that Friend Hal might not have liked Colde, the restaurant—the tables were light and kind of unstable and we sat on a slope. The tables and chairs were bistro style. He wanted to try Calissons, a specialty candy known to Aix, made of citrus, almonds, and melon. I love this candy, but we did not eat it yet.

Aside to Son Randy: Resizing the photos makes a huge difference in speed!  

TK: 11,500 steps
Janie: 13,000 steps

1 comment:

  1. Must bring back many fond memories. How many steps are you walking everyday..

    ReplyDelete