STORNAWAY, ISLE OF LEWIS, OUTER HEBRIDES, SCOTLAND--PEAT AND COWS AND SHEEP AND TWEED!

Saturday, August 22, 2026
Stornaway, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland
61F, cloudy then some sun

Janie at Callanish I

Standing Stones

What a learning curve for us! After the Shetland Islands, here we were in the Outer Hebrides.

Now that we have visited Scotland’s Orkney, Shetland Islands, and the Hebrides, we can almost see the scope of Scotland’s rich island history and diverse geography.  The islands are known for their cultural significance, influenced by Celtic, Norse (aka Vikings), and English-speaking people. I am trying to sort it all out.

Stornoway is the capital of the Isle of Lewis with dramatic coastlines, Iron Age engineering, and rich Viking folklore included! It is a compact town with a population of roughly 7,000 residents, making it the largest settlement in the Outer Hebrides. Outer Hebrides has a population of 26,000. 

Our private tour guide, Gordon, of Hebridean Island Tours, was superb as he guided us to many special sites.  We avoided bus traffic and crowds at every stop, and he even arranged for no rain! www.hebrideanisletours.co.uk

On the road, Gordon pointed out that the landscape was made up of a lot of peat in the area we were passing through. Peat is an organic soil, which contains more than 60% organic matter and exceeds 20 inches in depth. Add to the things I did not know: Peat bogs are essential to the environment, holding twice as much carbon as all the world’s forests. In this area one can no longer harvest peat except for one’s own use as fuel for the home. Gordon said that sheep and red deer have adapted to peat fields, few other animals have.

Peat

Close up of peat

French and Spanish hunters come to this area to hunt the red deer, which have been here since the Vikings. The deer are over populated—hunting license required.  There are no predators, no foxes, wolves, bears.

Our first stop was the Callanish Stones (Callanish I). No one else in the van wanted to visit the stones, so I paid the fee—I was not going to miss such Neolithic stones that predate Stonehenge by 2000 years. It is the oldest man made rock formation on earth!  The feeling there is just as sacred as at Stonehenge. No one knows why the stones were placed as they were or why here. 

The stones are Lewisian Gneiss and are local, as compared to Stonehenge where the stones are from Wales, England, and Scotland.  Callanish I consists of a stone circle of 13 stones with a monolith near the middle. The tallest stone is 12 ft. high and weighs about 7 tons. Within the circle is a chambered tomb.  I love mysteries and I bought a book there to help me understand, Contemplating Calanais, A Guide to Standing Stones, by Ian McHardy.

Callanish I

Callanish I

Callanish I

Callanish I

I know that's a lot of rocks, but 

they are fascinating to me

The history, the mystery!

Nearby was Callanish III, newly discovered

Poppies growing freeling nearby

Heather for Friend H

We have seen lots of Heather!

This gives you a good idea of what

the countryside looks like

Can you make out the 

Hebridean ewes? Very woolly!

Dun Carloway

We passed by the Dun Carloway “broch,” or roundhouse, an Iron Age sort of fort first used by Vikings, then two clans fought over it in the 1600s, the Morrison clan and the MacAuley clan.

More landscape--there are few trees

as the Vikings used trees to make their ships

Pine trees have been planted, but the 

wind prohibits them from growing properly

A blackhouse

Village

Close up of thatched roof

Beds!

Hearth

Old loom

The Arnol was once a small township with families that were like tenant farmers for centuries. They lived in “blackhouses” with thatched roofs, a traditional dwelling for centuries. The one we visited today was still used in the 1960s. There were double walls of rough stone, packed with earth and peat between them-no mortar. The walls could be five or six ft. thick because of the chill from the nearby North Atlantic.  There was a central hearth in the living area, burning. The roof was a frame of timber, layered with turf then thatched with heather, rushes, or straw.

Black face sheep--leisurely by the road

their wool is used for Harris Tweed

Obviously broke out of their fence!

Freedom!

We were very lucky to see

a Highland cow-usually they are

in the hills this time of year

Manx Loaghtan

We were very lucky to see this ram

This breed's male has four horns--

very intimidating

The Butt of Lewis Lighthouse is a striking landmark that stands at Rubha Robhanais, the northernmost point of the Isle of Lewis in Outer Hebrides and overlooks the North Atlantic Ocean. It was originally built by the Stevenson family (Robert Louis Stevenson’s grandfather) in 1862.  It is now automated has has recorded the highest wind in the United Kingdom.

Butte of Lewis Lighthouse 

View from the grounds

North Atlantic

Dalmore Beach

Our final stop was the town of Stornoway. Shopping! For 45 minutes. In an area noted for its Harris tweed (think the Isles of Lewis and Harris). Such beautiful handwoven material, coats, scarves, hats, purses, wallets, oh my. I ran in and out of shops with TK trailing behind. I wonder if there is such a thing as a shopping tour in the ports. Sign me up! 

Castle in Stornaway--more research

Tweed Shop

Dear Readers, I think you can tell that I love history and learning new things, but I love to look at all sorts of things for sale from each of the ports.

Time for TK’s Takes!

TK’s Takes: He did not see any swimming pools at any houses, but almost all the houses had clothes on clothes lines. He saw 3 dolphins off our starboard balcony after dinner. No trees to speak of. They do not grow well. Replanting has been attempted. No farms to speak of—hay bales, horses, sheep (Hebridean, Manx Loaghtan), a few Highlander cows.  Lots of dogs, one cat.