November 1, 2026
Kusadasi, Turkey
Day 27/50
71F, cloudy
Kusadasi, Turkey welcomed us!
Thank you for hanging in with us! Turkey is a little more exotic than other ports, and I have never visited. TK's ship was in Izmir, Turkey once, but the sailors were not allowed off. So in reality, this is his first time "touching the ground." That period, from
1968-1972, was marked by significant social, political, and cultural changes. There may have been anti-American sentiment
at the time.
Turkey's flag and an image of Kemal Ataturk
Mustafa Kemal Ataturk (1881-1938) is arguably the most famous person in Turkey. He served as president of Turkey for 15 years (from 1923 until he died in 1938) and is credited with creating the Republic of Turkey (aka modern Turkey) after the collapse of the Ottoman Empire after World War I.
As the founding father of modern Turkey, and the first President of the Turkish Republic, Atatürk made several significant reforms, such as making primary education compulsory and free and reforming the language from the traditional Arabic script to the Latin alphabet.
Kuşadası has a resident population of
around 137,000 people, which swells to over half a million during the summer
tourist season. It is a coastal resort town on the Aegean coast of Turkey. The
port is famous for its beaches, marina, and vibrant nightlife and serves as the
primary cruise port for travelers visiting the nearby ancient city of Ephesus. Obviously, we are not taking part in the
night life.
Pomegranate tree
Pomegranates for sale!
A cruise shipmate arranged a tour with
Ephesus Shuttle Tours a few months ago. (https://www.ephesusshuttle.com/) Our
tour guide, Melih, was excellent. He was
waiting for us as we disembarked the ship, the van was roomy and comfortable,
and there were only 11 of us. [Cost: $110/pp]
Mehil told us interesting facts about
Turkey, known for its fish industry, wine, marble industry, and rug
making. Istanbul has a population of 3
million residents. It is the only city in the world that rests on two continents,
Asia and Europe. Ankara is the capital.
Turkey’s population is about 87 million.
Turkey is a great source of marble,
onyx, alabaster, and travertine, and many kitchen countertop materials all over
the world come from Turkey.
Along the way we saw many olive trees,
so nicely cultivated on hillsides and flatlands. Mehil said there were about
180 million olive trees farmed in Turkey.
Olive trees take about 10 years to mature but live 600-2000 years
old. Other agricultural endeavors
include tobacco, grapes (for raisins-biggest customers-Australia, New Zealand,
and Russia), mulberry trees for silk, and cotton for their weaving. Mehil also mentioned that Turkey has the
finest, softest leather—used by Fendi, Gucci, Chanel, etc.—the highest quality
lambskin.
The bus was speeding by, but all
those tufty looking clumps are
olive trees--all over the mountain
Our first stop was Sirince, a historic hillside village near Ephesus with a population of
about 450 people. This small, picturesque village was originally a Greek
Orthodox village until the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in
1923. Many of the original stone houses
remain. It was a delight to stroll
around, and TK and I tried the coffee in a small café in the bazaar area.
One area of the bazaar
Demetrius of Ephesus gold shop
The owner made many pieces
for the movie Troy
Welcome to Sirince!
Barista!
The “barista” prepared small cups of liquid and placed them in a drum like basin with sand. She said to wait two minutes for the coffee to heat. The coffee was much milder than I expected. After we finished with the petite coffee, she gave us an even smaller cup of a mixture of coffee, cream, hazelnut, and pureed dates. It was thick and delicious. I don’t know the name!
Our coffee, water, and candies
Another cafe in the bazaar
Street area
Schoolhouse, now a museum
Look at what I found!
Zultanite
Zultanite is a gem variety of the mineral diaspore, mined in southwest Turkey in the Ibir Mountains at an elevation of over 4,000 feet. First discovered in the 1980s, it has a hardness of 6.5 to 7 on the Moh Scale. I did not buy.
I did not want to break with my blog tradition--I crossed this barrier long ago. This was the toilet at Sirince for 1 euro (I did not have Turkish money). Add a shower head and this could be the "bathroom" in the first apartment I lived in while studying in France in 1967-1968.
EPHESUS
In a short while we were in the area of
Ephesus, located roughly 20 minutes (11 miles) inland and north of
Kuşadası. Founded by Ionians around the first millennium BCE
century BC, Ephesus later became a massive Roman metropolis and the capital of
the Roman province of Asia. At its peak in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, it had
a population of 200,000 to 250,000 people and was one of the largest cities in
the Mediterranean world.
Near the entrance
The groove is called a canal--
lead was poured into the canal and a
rod was affixed in the center
to "glue" 2 pieces of the column
together
Detail of top of a column
Close up
Just to show you the crowds
This was a library!
Library of Celsus
The Library of
Celsus is considered an architectural marvel and is one of the few remaining
examples of great libraries of the ancient world. It was the third-largest library in the Greco-Roman
World behind only those of Alexandria and Pergamum, and is believed to have
held around 12,000 scrolls. Celsus
himself is buried in a crypt beneath the library in a decorated marble
sarcophagus.
The interior of
the library and its contents were destroyed in a fire that resulted either from
an earthquake or a Gothic invastion in 262 CE, and the façade by an earthquake
in the 10th or 11th century. It lay in ruins for
centuries until the façade was re-erected by archaeologists between 1970 and
1978.
Detail/Library
Detail above a column/library
TK near the Library
Latin inscription/Library
Both Agrippa and Caesar mentioned
--helps date
The Grand Theater of Ephesus is still used today
--about 25,000 people
It is said that
the Apostle Paul lived and preached there, and the Epistle to the
Ephesians in the New Testament is addressed to its Christian community. He was a tentmaker here. According to tradition, John the Apostle
spent his final years in Ephesus, and the Gospel of John may have been written
there.
What happened to
Ephesus? Over centuries, the harbor
silted up due to natural sedimentation, cutting the city off from the sea.
Combined with earthquakes, invasions, and shifting trade routes, Ephesus
gradually declined and was eventually abandoned. Mehil told us the city was never lost, people
knew where it was but it wasn’t until 1863 that the British museum sponsored
the archaeological research. It was
uncovered in many layers, up to 20 feet deep!
Currently Austrian archeologists are
“excavating” Ephesus. As the story in Greece about the Parthenon, many
important artifacts are now in Britain and other countries.
Ephesus is also famous for its nearby Temple of Artemis, which had a major role in early Christianity. Ephesus later became one of the most important urban centers of the Roman Empire, serving as the capital of the Roman province of Asia. Its location near the Aegean coast made it a hub for trade, culture, and political power.
This is what remains of the Temple of Artemis
After
Ephesus we stopped briefly at the Temple of Artemis, not far away. The Temple
of Artemis is one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and drew pilgrims,
merchants, and artisans from across the Mediterranean. Melih cautioned us not to be
disappointed. Originally the temple was
400 x 200 feet wide with 27 columns. One
marble pillar remains—put together from ruins by the archaeologists.
Then
Mehil pointed to the hill behind the Temple. He showed us a castle, a Catholic
church, and a Mosque, all made from “recycled marble” FROM THE TEMPLE OF
ARTEMIS:
Basilica of St. John (Catholic Church): 6th
century AD
Ayasuluk (Selçuk) Castle: 5th
century AD
Isa Bey Mosque: 1375 AD
A castle, a mosque, and a Catholic church made of
marble from the Temple of Artemis
Back at the port of Kusadasi, we walked
to Starbucks for a Kusadasi mug. That
was a busy big day!
TK at the Starbucks in Kusadasi
Our new cup!
Street vendor selling sweet corn on the cob!
TK's Takes: The many cats amuse him. There were lots of dogs running loose, too, but they do not pester people. He said that in every country but Turkey the stop signs say STOP
This cat found a comfortable spot
In Turkey STOP signs say DUR!
Tonight we have another time change---THE TENTH ONE on this trip!! Thank goodness we turn the clock back an hour, but tomorrow is another big day starting at 6 a.m.
