Saturday, August 22, 2026

STORNAWAY, ISLE OF LEWIS, OUTER HEBRIDES, SCOTLAND--PEAT AND COWS AND SHEEP AND TWEED!

Saturday, August 22, 2026
Stornaway, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland
61F, cloudy then some sun

Janie at Callanish I
Standing Stones



What a learning curve for us! After the Shetland Islands, here we were in the Outer Hebrides.

Now that we have visited Scotland’s Orkney, Shetland Islands, and the Hebrides, we can almost see the scope of Scotland’s rich island history and diverse geography.  The islands are known for their cultural significance, influenced by Celtic, Norse (aka Vikings), and English-speaking people. I am trying to sort it all out.

Stornoway is the capital of the Isle of Lewis with dramatic coastlines, Iron Age engineering, and rich Viking folklore included! It is a compact town with a population of roughly 7,000 residents, making it the largest settlement in the Outer Hebrides. Outer Hebrides has a population of 26,000. 

Our private tour guide, Gordon, of Hebridean Island Tours, was superb as he guided us to many special sites.  We avoided bus traffic and crowds at every stop, and he even arranged for no rain! www.hebrideanisletours.co.uk

On the road, Gordon pointed out that the landscape was made up of a lot of peat in the area we were passing through. Peat is an organic soil, which contains more than 60% organic matter and exceeds 20 inches in depth. Add to the things I did not know: Peat bogs are essential to the environment, holding twice as much carbon as all the world’s forests. In this area one can no longer harvest peat except for one’s own use as fuel for the home. Gordon said that sheep and red deer have adapted to peat fields, few other animals have.

Peat

Close up of peat

French and Spanish hunters come to this area to hunt the red deer, which have been here since the Vikings. The deer are over populated—hunting license required.  There are no predators, no foxes, wolves, bears.

Our first stop was the Callanish Stones (Callanish I). No one else in the van wanted to visit the stones, so I paid the fee—I was not going to miss such Neolithic stones that predate Stonehenge by 2000 years. It is the oldest man made rock formation on earth!  The feeling there is just as sacred as at Stonehenge. No one knows why the stones were placed as they were or why here. 

The stones are Lewisian Gneiss and are local, as compared to Stonehenge where the stones are from Wales, England, and Scotland.  Callanish I consists of a stone circle of 13 stones with a monolith near the middle. The tallest stone is 12 ft. high and weighs about 7 tons. Within the circle is a chambered tomb.  I love mysteries and I bought a book there to help me understand, Contemplating Calanais, A Guide to Standing Stones, by Ian McHardy.

Callanish I

Callanish I

Callanish I

Callanish I
I know that's a lot of rocks, but 
they are fascinating to me
The history, the mystery!

Nearby was Callanish III, newly discovered

Poppies growing freeling nearby

Heather for Friend H
We have seen lots of Heather!
This gives you a good idea of what
the countryside looks like


Can you make out the 
Hebridean ewes? Very woolly!

Dun Carloway

We passed by the Dun Carloway “broch,” or roundhouse, an Iron Age sort of fort first used by Vikings, then two clans fought over it in the 1600s, the Morrison clan and the MacAuley clan.

More landscape--there are few trees
as the Vikings used trees to make their ships
Pine trees have been planted, but the 
wind prohibits them from growing properly



A blackhouse

Village

Close up of thatched roof

Beds!

Hearth

Old loom

The Arnol was once a small township with families that were like tenant farmers for centuries. They lived in “blackhouses” with thatched roofs, a traditional dwelling for centuries. The one we visited today was still used in the 1960s. There were double walls of rough stone, packed with earth and peat between them-no mortar. The walls could be five or six ft. thick because of the chill from the nearby North Atlantic.  There was a central hearth in the living area, burning. The roof was a frame of timber, layered with turf then thatched with heather, rushes, or straw.

Black face sheep--leisurely by the road
their wool is used for Harris Tweed
Obviously broke out of their fence!
Freedom!

We were very lucky to see
a Highland cow-usually they are
in the hills this time of year

Manx Loaghtan
We were very lucky to see this ram
This breed's male has four horns--
very intimidating
The Butt of Lewis Lighthouse is a striking landmark that stands at Rubha Robhanais, the northernmost point of the Isle of Lewis in Outer Hebrides and overlooks the North Atlantic Ocean. It was originally built by the Stevenson family (Robert Louis Stevenson’s grandfather) in 1862.  It is now automated has has recorded the highest wind in the United Kingdom.

Butte of Lewis Lighthouse 

View from the grounds
North Atlantic
Dalmore Beach

Our final stop was the town of Stornoway. Shopping! For 45 minutes. In an area noted for its Harris tweed (think the Isles of Lewis and Harris). Such beautiful handwoven material, coats, scarves, hats, purses, wallets, oh my. I ran in and out of shops with TK trailing behind. I wonder if there is such a thing as a shopping tour in the ports. Sign me up! 

Castle in Stornaway--more research

Tweed Shop

Dear Readers, I think you can tell that I love history and learning new things, but I love to look at all sorts of things for sale from each of the ports.

Time for TK’s Takes!

TK’s Takes: He did not see any swimming pools at any houses, but almost all the houses had clothes on clothes lines. He saw 3 dolphins off our starboard balcony after dinner. No trees to speak of. They do not grow well. Replanting has been attempted. No farms to speak of—hay bales, horses, sheep (Hebridean, Manx Loaghtan), a few Highlander cows.  Lots of dogs, one cat.









Friday, August 21, 2026

LERWICK, SHETLAND ISLANDS, SCOTLAND AND SHETLAND PONIES! NOT FINISHED

Friday, August 21
Lerwick, Shetland Islands, Scotland
51F, some rain that felt like snow, and cloudy


The very first thing we did when we disembarked the tender which took us to Lerwick was head straight to a shop that sold woolen hats and gloves. I was wearing a turtleneck, sweatshirt, jacket, and rain jacket, and I was freezing! So was TK. Oh my gosh were we cold!
Near the tender drop off area

I reminded myself of the time TK wanted to go on an Alaskan cruise for his special birthday in July and I was not happy. “Who would want to go anywhere cold in the summer?” I argued.  Of course, we went off to Alaska in 1999, and the weather was beautiful, in the mid-70s, and sunshine most of the time.  And here we are today, freezing in Lerwick, the coldest port yet! In mid-August!

It was only 8 a.m. when we arrived in Lerwick, so after bundling up even more, we started looking for a bakery/coffee shop. Most everything was closed, but we found a cute little shop with cinnamon buns and muffins, and the strong coffee we are getting used to.




I love narrow streets
and I am so glad 
that I lived on one
in France in the sixties!

This sweet Shetland Sheepdog lives
in the Bakery/Cafe where
we ate
TK's photos have not been delivered to my inbox yet

Wikipedia told me that Lerwick is a bustling, historic harbor town that serves as the archipelago's cultural and commercial heart. Straddling the boundary between the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, these islands feature a unique blend of Scottish charm and deep Viking history.  The total population of the entire Shetland archipelago is roughly 21,000 residents, with about 7,500 people living specifically in the capital town of Lerwick.

The Princess port guide people said the islands were settled by the Vikings between the 8th and 9th century and were part of Norway. Since 1472 the islands have been part of Scotland. There is evidence of human settlement in the Neolithic, Bronze, and Iron Ages. Lerwick was founded in the 17th century as a herring and white fish seaport.  Ironically, Shetland’s population of just 23,000 lands more fish that the 61 million people living in England, Wales, and Northern Ireland combined. That has to be a lot of fish.

Another statistic states that the sheep in Shetland outnumber the residents-- the 23,000 sheep reside on the islands. As we traversed the countryside, we certainly did see a lot of sheep.

Our tour, Lerwick: Shetland Pony Express, was with Robertson’s Tours, part of Get Your Guide system. The bus was ample size and off we went through the outskirts of Lerwick

Along the way to see the ponies, we saw a few homes that dotted the landscape--- rolling hills, heather, and sheep. There are few trees because of the wind, and land was cleared for the sheep.

Scalloway Castle
We passed Scalloway Castle, home of Patrick Stewart, earl of Orkney and Shetland. He was notorious for his oppression of the Shetland people and eventually executed in Edinburgh in 1615.  The castle he built by forcing labor is a notable example of a late 1500s tower house.

There are a few bridges between islands,
but the main transport is ferry, boat, or plane

Our bus driver/tour guide told us that Shetland Islands was known as a key part of the Northern Front in World War II, defending the British Isles and supporting resistance operations in Norway. The islands were a springboard for intelligence gathering, defensive missions, and covert missions.
The Shetland Bus by David Howarth
Classic story of secret war time 
missions across the North Sea
in World War II

Did you know that Shetland ponies have lived on these islands for over 4,000 years. Archaeological evidence suggests horses were present by the Bronze Age, and possibly earlier. Over millennia, they adapted entirely to the conditions around them. 

Sturdy animals, these are!


Mother and colt
Carol said the colt will be all white too


We met Carol and about 14 of her sweet Shetland ponies. Today there are only 1000 such ponies on Shetland Islands, but every one is microchipped and their pedigree is registered.  Despite being small, they can pull twice their weight and at one time were used in coal mines and tunnels. Typically they weigh 400-450 pounds.  

Carol told us that their gestation period is 11 months, and they live up to 30+ years. Now they make great companions to other horses and people.  Her ponies are growing their winter coat now. They prefer to live outdoors year round, with some shelter. The Islands get very little snow.

A graveyard by a church
no gravestone cleaning needed here!

The blog would not be complete
without sheep in Scotland!

Not sure if this is a one family or two
family home
Approaching Lerwick
the walls of Fort Charlotte
First built in 1652 for protection against
 the Dutch, rebuilt in 1781

Guns aimed at the port!
As we rode back to Lerwick our bus driver said that no one locks their home or car, and they even leave their keys in the car. TK and I watched the detective show Shetland, and on that show it seems like a person is murdered every day there. The bus driver joked about that. In truth, he could only recall one murder, and it was such a rare occurrence, the police hardly  knew what to do. He also said that the murderer and the murdered person were Canadian.

TK stands by the fictional detective's home
TK looking for beach glass 
on the only beach around!
Beachglass we found!!


This home/building is across from the
detective's house

in the harbor

A peek into someone's
courtyard

Statsraad Lehmuhl, a Norwegian Barque
Training ship in port at Lerwick

Back in Lerwick we strolled around the little village again, checking out the shops. It was soon time to return to the ship to get warm!!
Goodbye, Lerwick!

TK’s Takes: The town looked just like the TV show, Shetland. He wanted to see the Chief Detective’s house (DI Jimmy Perez) and we did!  Now we have visited two of Scotland’s island areas, Shetland and Orkney [2024]! [Orkney was not as cold]. Getting up early to go through the new UK immigration requirement was worth it. The only thing better was if we didn't have to take a water shuttle to the port. This was a very good port of call.