Showing posts with label Stonehenge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stonehenge. Show all posts

Saturday, August 22, 2026

STORNAWAY, ISLE OF LEWIS, OUTER HEBRIDES, SCOTLAND--PEAT AND COWS AND SHEEP AND TWEED!

Saturday, August 22, 2026
Stornaway, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland
61F, cloudy then some sun

Janie at Callanish I
Standing Stones

What a learning curve for us! After the Shetland Islands, here we were in the Outer Hebrides.

Now that we have visited Scotland’s Orkney, Shetland Islands, and the Hebrides, we can almost see the scope of Scotland’s rich island history and diverse geography.  The islands are known for their cultural significance, influenced by Celtic, Norse (aka Vikings), and English-speaking people. I am trying to sort it all out.

Stornoway is the capital of the Isle of Lewis with dramatic coastlines, Iron Age engineering, and rich Viking folklore included! It is a compact town with a population of roughly 7,000 residents, making it the largest settlement in the Outer Hebrides. Outer Hebrides has a population of 26,000. 

Our private tour guide, Gordon, of Hebridean Island Tours, was superb as he guided us to many special sites.  We avoided bus traffic and crowds at every stop, and he even arranged for no rain! www.hebrideanisletours.co.uk

On the road, Gordon pointed out that the landscape was made up of a lot of peat in the area we were passing through. Peat is an organic soil, which contains more than 60% organic matter and exceeds 20 inches in depth. Add to the things I did not know: Peat bogs are essential to the environment, holding twice as much carbon as all the world’s forests. In this area one can no longer harvest peat except for one’s own use as fuel for the home. Gordon said that sheep and red deer have adapted to peat fields, few other animals have.

Peat

Close up of peat
TK said it had no smell

French and Spanish hunters come to this area to hunt the red deer, which have been here since the Vikings. The deer are over populated—hunting license required.  There are no predators, no foxes, wolves, bears.

Our first stop was the Callanish Stones (Callanish I). No one else in the van wanted to visit the stones, so I paid the fee—I was not going to miss such Neolithic stones that predate Stonehenge by 2000 years. It is the oldest man made rock formation on earth!  The feeling there is just as sacred as at Stonehenge. No one knows why the stones were placed as they were or why here. 

The stones are Lewisian Gneiss and are local, as compared to Stonehenge where the stones are from Wales, England, and Scotland.  Callanish I consists of a stone circle of 13 stones with a monolith near the middle. The tallest stone is 12 ft. high and weighs about 7 tons. Within the circle is a chambered tomb.  I love mysteries and I bought a book there to help me understand, Contemplating Calanais, A Guide to Standing Stones, by Ian McHardy.

Callanish I

Callanish I

Callanish I

Callanish I
I know that's a lot of rocks, but 
they are fascinating to me
The history, the mystery!

Nearby was Callanish III, newly discovered

Poppies growing freeling nearby

Heather for Friend H
We have seen lots of Heather!
This gives you a good idea of what
the countryside looks like

Can you make out the 
Hebridean ewes? Very woolly!

Dun Carloway

We passed by the Dun Carloway “broch,” or roundhouse, an Iron Age sort of fort first used by Vikings, then two clans fought over it in the 1600s, the Morrison clan and the MacAuley clan.

More landscape--there are few trees
as the Vikings used trees to make their ships
Pine trees have been planted, but the 
wind prohibits them from growing properly


A blackhouse

Village

Close up of thatched roof

Beds!

Hearth

Old loom

The Arnol was once a small township with families that were like tenant farmers for centuries. They lived in “blackhouses” with thatched roofs, a traditional dwelling for centuries. The one we visited today was still used in the 1960s. There were double walls of rough stone, packed with earth and peat between them-no mortar. The walls would be five or six ft. thick because of the chill from the nearby North Atlantic.  There was a central hearth in the living area, burning. The roof was a frame of timber, layered with turf then thatched with heather, rushes, or straw.

Black face sheep--leisurely by the road
their wool is used for Harris Tweed
They obviously broke out of their fence!
Freedom!

We were very lucky to see
a Highland cow-usually they are
in the hills this time of year

Manx Loaghtan
We were also very lucky to see this ram
This breed's male has four horns--
very intimidating
The Butt of Lewis Lighthouse is a striking landmark that stands at Rubha Robhanais, the northernmost point of the Isle of Lewis in Outer Hebrides and overlooks the North Atlantic Ocean. It was originally built by the Stevenson family (Robert Louis Stevenson’s grandfather) in 1862.  It is now automated has has recorded the highest wind in the United Kingdom.

Butte of Lewis Lighthouse 

View from the grounds
North Atlantic
Dalmore Beach

Our final stop was the town of Stornoway. Shopping! For 45 minutes. In an area noted for its Harris tweed (think the Isles of Lewis and Harris). Such beautiful handwoven material, coats, scarves, hats, purses, wallets, oh my. I ran in and out of shops with TK trailing behind. I wonder if there is such a thing as a shopping tour in the ports. Sign me up! 

Castle in Stornaway--more research

Tweed Shop

Dear Readers, I think you can tell that I love history and learning new things, but I love to look at all sorts of things for sale from each of the ports.

Time for TK’s Takes!

TK’s Takes: He did not see any swimming pools at any houses, but almost all the houses had clothes on clothes lines. He saw 3 dolphins off our starboard balcony after dinner. No trees to speak of. They do not grow well. Replanting has been attempted. No farms to speak of—hay bales, horses, sheep (Hebridean, Manx Loaghtan), a few Highlander cows.  Lots of dogs, one cat.





Tuesday, September 24, 2024

A SPIRITUAL STONEHENGE! REGAL PRINCESS AT MAYFLOWER TERMINAL!

Regal Princess/Southampton to At Sea
Tuesday, September 24, 2024
Sprinkles, then clear/62F

TK at Stonehenge

International Friends picked us and all our luggage up this morning for a tour of Stonehenge and then delivery to the Regal Princess.  The two hour drive to Stonehenge was peaceful, yet cold. When it was 60F out, it was time to turn on the air-conditioning on the bus.  I feel like the only person on the planet who is cold. Our tour guide Valentina did a great job of preparing us for Stonehenge with another history lesson. I do like this review of English history, the Anglo Saxons, the Jutes, the Picts, Celts, Normans, all after the Romans.

Valentina compared the history of the area of Stonehenge (Wessex) to the Game of Thrones.  There was King Alfred, or Alfred the Great, who brought the languages together into what is now called Old English.  All these things interest me, but before I lose my readers, I will move on.

The stone circle, Stonehenge, predates all of that—estimated to be about 5000 years old, and no one knows how some of the stones were moved from Wales, 150 miles away, to this location to Wiltshire, England. Another fact is that the stones were moved several times over hundreds of years to new configurations.  Scientists think that the stones were a  way to keep track of seasons.

A view of Stonehenge-the Sarsen Circle
Visitors are not allowed inside the circle

Janie at Stonehenge

Another view
Visitors can walk the circumference of the circle

The vertical stone and lintil are locked together 
with a joint like a mortise and tenon

One cannot help but feel the spirituality when looking at such a marvel.   It is a technological wonder that seems to create energy from of the people who built it.  The exhibit hall was very well done, with some artifacts from the archeological sites, including human bones, tools, even pottery.  I am so glad that we visited this site.

The Heel (or Hele or Heal) Stone, outside
the circle

This stone marks the place on the horizon where the summer solstice sunrise appears when viewed from the center of the stone circle.  This one weighs 30 tons.



The Beaker people, so called because of the pottery beakers
found at the site, lived in such huts
Reconstructed

Another type of hut (Beaker people)
Reconstructed

I read reviews online written by people who were unimpressed by the site. I asked TK if he thought he and I could move 30 ton stones over 150 miles—I am impressed just thinking about that.  I can say for sure that I would not know where to start.  The creators of this site did not just move the stones, they shaped them and put notches into them so they would fit with each other (the standing stones and the lintels). [Note: it is estimated that over 400 men moved each stone using wood rails—and boats were used to carry the stones from Wales.] 

TK and I will start this task by walking to Wales from Wessex to find the stones to bring back to Wessex. Tomorrow!

We spent two hours at Stonehenge, then boarded the bus for the Port of Southampton. About an hour later the Regal Princess showed us her profile at Mayflower Marina Terminal.  Ironically, my ancestors sailed out of Southampton on the Mayflower to travel to the new land.

I have been in Southampton twice before, in 1967 and 1968, as I traveled to France for school/1967.  It was the first port we reached from NYC before we left the ship at LeHavre.  When we left LeHavre in 1968, we stopped at Southampton on the way back to NYC. 

By the way, from the middle of the 1800's, Southampton has been famous for being a liner port. In 1912, the world's most famous liner, The Titanic, embarked from here on its fateful maiden voyage, carrying seven hundred Southampton residents in her crew, over five hundred of whom would never return.

This is the 5th time we have been on the Regal, so we basically know the routine.  Dinner was tasty, steak for me, pot roast for TK, and the most delicious berry cobbler for dessert.  Off to a good start. We are unpacked, ready for a restful sea day tomorrow!

Stateroom Aloha 212 or 12212

A212
Our favorite configuration--a curtain
divides the sleeping space from the
couch, chair, and desk

TK’s Takes:  He saw a raven at Stonehenge and ring-necked pheasants is the field while riding the bus. Stonehenge was a sight to behold.