Showing posts with label amber. Show all posts
Showing posts with label amber. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 12, 2026

TAILLIN, ESTONIA AND A PARTIAL SOLAR ECLIPSE

Wednesday, August 12, 2026
Tailinn, Estonia
63F, very windy, cloudy until the eclipse!

 

A gateway into a Medieval city!

What a quaint fairy tale city Taillin is! Medieval is definitely the word of the day! Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, sits on the Gulf of Finland. It blends one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval Old Towns—a UNESCO World Heritage site—with a world-leading, digital-first economy. Just 50 miles south of Helsinki, it is a highly walkable city known for its cobblestone streets and thriving tech scene.  Taillin is also considered the oldest capital in Europe. It is also considered one of the least polluted capitals in the world.


As of 2026, the population of Tallinn is estimated to be approximately 457,000 residents within the city limits.  Estonia, the smallest Baltic state has a population of about 1.3 million people.

Like the other Baltic countries we have visited, we can easily observe its Danish, Swedish, Russian, German, and Soviet Communist (Operation Barbarossa) roots. Established in the 12th century, it has seen its share of political turnovers. Just like the other countries, it overcame the time of the Russian tsars to be influenced by the Germans, then the Communists. Estonia was finally liberated in 1991 and is a Parliamentary Republic.

We heard the story of the Singing Revolution— in the late 1980s, massive demonstrations against the Soviet regime began. The Soviets were censoring religion and other freedoms in all three Baltic states. The opposition that wanted independence coordinated public song festivals as a key element of resistance. Tens of thousands of people sang national and folk songs in mass gatherings.  

Just as the Soviets were planning to destroy the Medieval walls of Taillin to make way for other construction, Estonia was liberated—we truly enjoyed those Medieval gates and walls today! 

In America we have no idea what such oppression is like.

It was very windy and chilly when we took the shuttle to an area closer to the Old Town—cost $12/each for round trip.

A bakery stop, a long climb to the Upper Old Town, souvenir shops, more amber, beautiful churches, and cobblestone streets that were not too treacherous.  Estonians easily admit to having lots of cold weather. Beautiful wool sweaters, socks, and scarves fill the shops, as well as amber, wooden kitchen utensils, felted hats, and the usual trinkets.


Love the color!

The Polish Embassy in Estonia
Note the Polish flag

Halfway up to Upper Old Town
You can do it!

The view was worth the climb!



TK should not have said, "Look, they're having sale..."
Note jacket, sweatshirt, and turtleneck!
Amber galore!
Amber does not weigh very much...
It floats in saltwater.
Plenty of room in my luggage for amber!

Readers need to know that the jewelry shop's
restroom was in the cellar--typical
in Europe. This one happens 
to be the oldest cellar in the 
Upper Old Town area

It did not cost me 1 euro, you
can guess why...

A government official's estate

Orthodox Church

Thankfully, we can still lots of steps to do that climb, but the view was worth it! The rest is all downhill.

TK decided he wanted to have something to eat, so we stopped at a square full of restaurants with outdoor seating (and blankets on every seat). Menus declared elk, bear, boar, and other such “delights.”  We opted for fried dumplings and fried dark bread (like pumpernickel), and 2 Coke Zeros.

Dumplings, foreground
dark bread, background
and TK!

The dumplings had a sausage filling (beef and pork, I asked), and that bread was garlicky, but both were delicious.

We were ready to return to the ship, caught the shuttle, and I prepared my camera and tripod for the partial solar eclipse. After dinner I found a spot on the Sun Deck #16. It was so windy I couldn’t use my tripod. It was too hard to hold the camera steady, so I had to give up. There were only a few people onboard with any interest in the celestial rarity, so TK, Chai and Maurice from Hawaii, and I watched the marvelous event together. 

View from Sapphire Princess of Taillin

haha--this is my camera's version of the sun
when I was practicing for the eclipse
I couldn't hold the camera still

SOLAR ECLIPSE
I purchased solar eclipse glasses, ISO 12312-2 certified —  the international standard that ensures the glasses block harmful UV, infrared, and intense visible light---before we left Erie. I already had a avery good  solar filter for my camera in 2023, before the year Erie was in the path of totality for a solar eclipse.  Brooke, Breanna, and I all had the right cameras, the right filters, tripods, and we all took decent photos! Brian was part of the camera crew too, as well as Randy.  I was prepared for the partial eclipse in Taillin!

Peak time was 8:02 p.m., Eastern European Summer Time.  If anyone knows me, they know I was on the top deck by 7 p.m., and a good thing, because it took an hour to set everything up. One other couple, the aforementioned Chai and Maurice, were right there with me.

I knew that Taillin was the in the path of totality, but it was predicted that 61% of the sun would be obscured.  Iceland, Greenland, and northern Spain got the full treatment, and there were cruises in those places, but this was the itinerary we really wanted.

All day it was very cloudy so I wasn't sure how this would go, but the clouds cleared about a half hour before the eclipse.  The moon took little bites out of the sun as time passed after 8:02--and in my opinion the sun ended up being at least 85% covered.  

Image from Warsaw, Poland



 



Tomorrow we will visit Helsinki!

Monday, August 10, 2026

KLAIPEDA, LITHUANIA, TIŠKEVIČIAI PALACE, AND MORE AMBER!

Monday, August 10, 2026
Klaipeda, Lithuania
65F with sun, clouds, rain in the afternoon

 

Gardens outside the estate
at Palanga

We have only stopped in two ports so far and we are tired! Going to bed after 11 p.m., turning the clock ahead an hour so now we are Eastern European Summer Time (so it was really midnight), then getting up at 6:00 or 6:30 a.m. for tours is already wearing us out!  Add over 10,000 steps a day and you have two tired cruisers!  From August 9 to August 15, we have 7 straight ports to play in!  That is only keeping us young and fit, right?


Today’s port is Klaipeda, Lithuania. Klaipėda is Lithuania’s third-largest city and its only major seaport. Situated on the Baltic coast, it is famous for its distinct German-influenced, half-timbered architecture, the bustling Old Town, and as the primary ferry gateway to the pristine beaches and pine forests of the Curonian Spit. The city’s population is 160,082 residents. 

Among Lithuanian cities with a population greater than 100,000, Klaipėda has the highest percentage of people whose native language is Russian.  Lithuania’s population is about 2.8 million.

As it turned out, the Klaipeda ORC (Offshore Racing Congress) European Championship 2026  Klaipeda officially opened today, bringing leading offshore yacht racing teams from across Europe to Lithuania’s port city. This has added a bit more excitement to the port area.

Our tour guide today, Ema, provided some information about Lithuania. The first humans arrived in the territory of modern Lithuania around 10,000 years ago, after the last Ice Age, as traveling hunters from regions including the Jutland Peninsula and present-day Poland.

Following the partitions of Poland in 1795, Lithuania came under Russian Empire control. The 19th century saw several uprisings, notably in 1831 and 1863, as Lithuanians resisted foreign domination.

Lithuania declared independence on 16 February 1918, establishing a democratic state. After Soviet occupation during and after World War II, Lithuania restored its sovereignty on 11 March 1990, becoming the first Soviet republic to break away. Its independence was internationally recognized in 1991. Lithuania joined NATO in 2015 and the European Union in 2004, solidifying its place in modern Europe.  Euro is the currency. Lithuania is considered a Parliamentary Democratic Republic.

Ema said, “Humanism and love came back to our country.”  That is an astounding statement to me.

The theme seems to be the same in the two countries we have visited so far, Germans under Hitler occupied the country, then the Communists. Now they are returning to their own culture.  Ema said during one period every town and city had to have a statue of Lenin. Then Hitler.

Again, as in Poland, students are mainly studying English as their foreign language. 

Ema also talked about how there are two religions in Lithuania, Catholicism and Basketball.  Actually, every religion is represented in this country, but we did notice very tall people!

We headed to Palanga, a resort town, to visit the neo-Renaissance Tiškevičiai Palace, built in 1897, which is now an Amber Museum.  A beautifully maintained park surrounds the palace. Along the way, the land was flat, with woods and fields.  Ema said that if there is a hill 90 feet high, they call it a mountain. 

From the bus it was a 20 minute walk to the estate.
This beautiful statue was along the way.
Amber! Soon I will know everything there is to know about amber and so might you if you are still with me on this amber journey! My excuse: I am learning all about this interesting gem for my brother who makes beautiful necklaces out of quartz, lapis, jade, and many other “rocks.”  In other words, I am going with "my brother made me do it."

While at the museum I spotted a book, Baltic Amber. I asked if I could purchase the book--of course. The lady at the ticket desk said, "I wrote it!"  I asked if she would sign it and she did--it is a wonderful and informative book. By Renee Makauskiene and published by the Lithuanian Museum of Art. Good eye, Janie!


The estate at Palanga

Baltic Amber, by Renee Makauskiene

Raw amber as found

Raw amber

Lizard in amber
I am so happy that my DSLR is taking
such great photos! This was taken 
through a magnifying glass

Flying insect in amber

Copies of figures made during
the Stone Age
Originals were stolen in
World War II, but well-documented
Early amber necklace, c. 900 AD

Cross from old Tytuvenal Church
late 16th-17th century

Chess anyone?
not sure how old this set is

Chess Set created in 1977

We counted at least 5 robot lawnmowers
mowing the lawn!

Favorite Foods:

  • Potato dumplings served with bacon and butter
  • Cold Pink Soup (Saltibarscai)—made with beets, etc.
  • Black rye bread—it is said that each Lithuanian eats 242 pounds of black rye bread a year. Wow. Just wow! They also like fried black rye bread as a snack
  • Boletus Soup in a bread bowl (with mushrooms)
  • Branched cake (Sakotis)—I need to know more about this—TK saw this on YouTube, too.
  • Branched cake-not my photo
    Šakotis (literally "branched") is a tall, spike-covered cake made by ladling thin yolk-rich batter onto a slowly rotating wooden spit over a coal fire, layer by layer, until the cake builds up to roughly 11-19 inches tall and 8 inches wide. Being the skilled baker that I am, I will probably never try making this.

Language: Lithuanian, a Baltic language, is the oldest Indo-European language. Ema said that Lithuanian and Latvian languages are the only Baltic languages surviving today.

LEFT OVER FROM SUNDAY:

I had trouble downloading photos yesterday for the already long blog, so I am adding them today.


Clock tower in Gdansk

Janie and TK make pierogies!

TK is so darn cute, and serious!

Our pierogi, ready to eat!


TK had beef stroganoff for dinner
last night. It was closer to what we think
of as beef stroganoff
WITH PICKLES??????

Pistachio pudding! (Sunday)

Dessert Monday--we were going to play "Guess this food,"
but we forgot the name and you would not be able to guess
Will write later!

TK’s Takes: No Aldi’s, just Lidl. Not as many bicycles as in Poland. Thirty minutes to wait for burger at the grill on the Pool Deck 14."

Janie’s Take: Beware of Ship Port Lecturers who say, “Poland has birds, animals, and fish.” Really??  It would take me a long time to think of an inhabited country without birds, animals, or fish.

Sunday, August 9, 2026

WE MADE PIEROGIS IN GDANSK, POLAND!

Sunday, August 9/ Gdansk, Poland
Sapphire Princess on the Baltic Sea
75F and sunny!

TK makes pierogies! 

View this morning from our balcony
in Gdynia

We have anticipated our stop in Gdansk, Poland for a long time and finally here we are on a sunny, mild day! Gdańsk is a city on the Baltic coast of northern Poland. With a population of 470,000 it is Poland's sixth largest city and its major seaport. Poland’s population is about 38 million people. We learned so much today from our wonderful tour guide, Joanna L.


The ship is in port in Gdynia, a short drive from Gdansk (45 minutes with no traffic). We boarded the bus and were easily on our way.   On the way to the city, we learned how Gdynia was only a fishing village that was created as a new city only 100 years ago.  The history of Poland is much longer—spanning over a thousand years, from medieval times, becoming a Catholic nation, a monarchy to two world wars, communism, and now democracy.  Teutonic knights, the German people, Mennonites, and the Pope all played a part.

Bridge over Motlawa River in Gdansk

Before Poland was liberated from Nazi Germany, 90% of Gdansk was destroyed. The country was liberated by the Russians. The people wanted to rebuild and the Communists wanted their architecture, but the people wanted the buildings reconstructed as they were. Some compromise was achieved and on our way the city we could see the difference—stern buildings, compared to Neo-Gothic, Gothic, even Baroque.

Another view of the  Motlawa River in Gdansk

Test your Polish!
Lech Walesa lived here

Joanna told us that from time to time he would
pop out of the door and introduce himself
as if people did not know who he was


After a short walk along the Motlawa River, into Main Town, down Ul. Dluga (street name), a quick trip to St. Mary’s Basilica, it was time to visit the restaurant where we would learn to make our own pierogi.   

Our teacher had carefully pre-prepared the ingredients and we each had our own station with flour, a dish of pork sausage, a dish of potato and onion, a bowl of dough, a fork, and a rolling pin. There were other fillings, some were sweet.  Before a quick demo we donned  a clear plastic apron and went to work. TK made sausage pierogi, I made potato and onion. We were good kids and did not get flour all over ourselves and others.  The teacher swept our carefully handmade pierogies away to cook—I think they were boiled—and we sat down to eat them.  TK was adorably in his element.  We ate pierogies in Poland!!

Gdanski Bowke on Dlugie Pobrzeze 11
Restaurant/Bar


TK makes pierogies!

The pierogies were quite tasty with sour cream. Neither of us need sweet pierogies though. I had a chance to ask Joanna about the surname, Golab.  Without hesitation she said it means “dove.” I asked her about golabki—she said doves in a blanket. She also pronounced it go-wumb---one can definitely hear the "b" on the end. That settles that—it is what I believed all along.  In French the word for dove is la colombe.  In Latin in is columba---I am not an etymologist, but it would appear that the word for dove in Polish might derive from Latin!

The bottom line says Golabki

I also asked Joanna about Lublin, Poland, the city Tim’s grandparents and my son’s great grandparents came from.  She said that Lublin was a very poor area and people migrated away to find a better life. That is research for another day!

After all that fun and eating we had a little time to check out more amber and Starbucks.  Since today was Sunday, open shops were limited.

Sights as we strolled along


Fountain

A fabulous city walk


Polish auto license plate

Another view of the street


St. Mary's Basilica
one of the largest brick churches 
in Europe--not always a Catholic Church

Detail in St. Mary's Basilica

Note the dragon spout-


Of course a galleon greeted us along the river

Another amber lesson!

On the way back to Gdansk, Joanna explained about schools and the health system in Poland.

First, she talked about the Mennonites in Poland, were a historic community that settled primarily in the Vistula delta and Mazovia from the 16th century, contributing significantly to agriculture and cultural heritage before being displaced after World War II. She said if we knew any Mennonites to thank them for Poland!

Gdansk, the birthplace of Solidarity

School from primary through university is free. It is mandatory for children to go to school for 8 years, starting at age 7. Parents are put in jail if they do not send their children to school.  After 8 years students take an exam to go to secondary school.  After that they take another exam and depending on that score they go to different universities if they wish.

When the country was Communist, studying Russian was mandatory.  Now the most popular language to study is English, followed by Spanish, Italian, French, and rarely Russian.

Health care is very good and free.

It is incredible to think about some of the things Joanna mentioned—

1990 was the first time they were able to watch American TV/movies. For example, they loved Tom & Jerry and Dynasty. Previously that they had to watch Communist propaganda. She remembered the jingle, "Coffee without Cremora was like Dynasty without Alexa."  Miami Vice—everyone had a crush on Don Johnson till Dirty Dancing and Patrick Swayze came along. They got used to British humor (not easy at first, Joanna said), like Mr. Bean, Monty Python, Allo! Allo! and Hyacinth.

They knew they arrived when McDonald’s showed up, in 1994. That was forbidden in Communist countries.

Poland was admitted to NATO in 1999.  There were growing pains, problems with corruption and crime, but that has improved vastly.

Americans are very fortunate------ 

Language: Polish and Czechoslovakian are similar, and they can understand each other. There are only 3 tenses in Polish, past, present, and future. English has 16 tenses.  There are 7 cases in Polish. In English there are three: Nominative (subjective): used for the subject of a sentence, Accusative (objective): used for the object of a verb, and Genitive (possessive): used to show ownership.  That is enough grammar lessons for today.

 And most likely, Dear Readers, you are indeed sleepy----time for TK’s Takes!

TK’s Takes:  Poland is 10 out of 10. Our tour guide was great. We did not have enough time in Gdansk.  We needed measurements and ingredients so we can make pierogi at home, but now we know the process. Lots of people with dogs. We spotted Lidl’s, Circle K, Burger King, BP, Chinese, and Mexican restaurants.

Of course we bought a Starbucks cup!