Friday, August 21
Lerwick, Shetland Islands, Scotland
51F, some rain that felt like snow, and cloudy
The very first thing we did when we disembarked the tender which
took us to Lerwick was head straight to a shop that sold woolen hats and
gloves. I was wearing a turtleneck, sweatshirt, jacket, and rain jacket, and I
was freezing! So was TK. Oh my gosh were we cold!Near the tender drop off area
I reminded myself of the time TK wanted to go on an Alaskan
cruise for his special birthday in July and I was not happy. “Who would want to go
anywhere cold in the summer?” I argued.
Of course, we went off to Alaska in 1999, and the weather was beautiful,
in the mid-70s, and sunshine most of the time.
And here we are today, freezing in Lerwick, the coldest port yet! In mid-August!
It was only 8 a.m. when we arrived in Lerwick, so after
bundling up even more, we started looking for a bakery/coffee shop. Most everything
was closed, but we found a cute little shop with cinnamon buns and muffins, and
the strong coffee we are getting used to.
I love narrow streets
and I am so glad
that I lived on one
in France in the sixties!
This sweet Shetland Sheepdog lives
in the Bakery/Cafe where
we ate
TK's photos have not been delivered to my inbox yet
Wikipedia told me that Lerwick is a bustling, historic harbor
town that serves as the archipelago's cultural and commercial heart. Straddling
the boundary between the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, these islands
feature a unique blend of Scottish charm and deep Viking history. The total population of the entire Shetland
archipelago is roughly 21,000 residents, with about 7,500 people living
specifically in the capital town of Lerwick.
The Princess port guide people said the islands were settled
by the Vikings between the 8th and 9th century and were part of Norway. Since 1472 the islands have been part of Scotland. There is
evidence of human settlement in the Neolithic, Bronze, and Iron Ages. Lerwick
was founded in the 17th century as a herring and white fish
seaport. Ironically, Shetland’s population
of just 23,000 lands more fish that the 61 million people living in England,
Wales, and Northern Ireland combined. That has to be a lot of fish.
Another statistic states that the sheep in Shetland outnumber
the residents-- the 23,000 sheep reside on the islands. As we traversed the countryside,
we certainly did see a lot of sheep.
Our tour, Lerwick: Shetland Pony Express, was with Robertson’s
Tours, part of Get Your Guide system. The bus was ample size and off we went through
the outskirts of Lerwick
Along the way to see the ponies, we saw a few homes that dotted
the landscape--- rolling hills, heather, and sheep. There are few trees because
of the wind, and land was cleared for the sheep.
Scalloway Castle
We passed Scalloway Castle, home of Patrick Stewart, earl of
Orkney and Shetland. He was notorious for his oppression of the Shetland people
and eventually executed in Edinburgh in 1615.
The castle he built by forcing labor is a notable example of a late
1500s tower house.
There are a few bridges between islands,
but the main transport is ferry, boat, or plane
Our bus driver/tour guide told us that Shetland Islands was
known as a key part of the Northern Front in World War II, defending the
British Isles and supporting resistance operations in Norway. The islands were
a springboard for intelligence gathering, defensive missions, and covert
missions.The Shetland Bus by David Howarth
Classic story of secret war time
missions across the North Sea
Did you know that Shetland ponies have lived on these islands
for over 4,000 years. Archaeological evidence suggests horses were present by
the Bronze Age, and possibly earlier. Over millennia, they adapted entirely to
the conditions around them.
Sturdy animals, these are!
Mother and colt
Carol said the colt will be all white too
We met Carol and about 14 of her sweet Shetland ponies. Today
there are only 1000 such ponies on Shetland Islands, but every one is microchipped
and their pedigree is registered. Despite being small, they can pull twice their
weight and at one time were used in coal mines and tunnels. Typically they weigh
400-450 pounds.
Carol told us that their gestation period is 11 months, and they live up to 30+ years. Now they make great companions to other horses and people. Her ponies are growing their winter coat now.
They prefer to live outdoors year round, with some shelter. The Islands get very little snow.
A graveyard by a church
no gravestone cleaning needed here!
The blog would not be complete
without sheep in Scotland!
Not sure if this is a one family or two
family home
Approaching Lerwick
the walls of Fort Charlotte
First built in 1652 for protection against
the Dutch, rebuilt in 1781
Guns aimed at the port!
As we rode back to Lerwick our bus driver said that no one
locks their home or car, and they even leave their keys in the car. TK and I
watched the detective show Shetland, and on that show it seems like a person is
murdered every day there. The bus driver joked about that. In truth, he could
only recall one murder, and it was such a rare occurrence, the police
hardly knew what to do. He also said
that the murderer and the murdered person were Canadian.
TK stands by the fictional detective's home
TK looking for beach glass
on the only beach around!
Beachglass we found!!
This home/building is across from the
detective's house
in the harbor
A peek into someone's
courtyard
Back in Lerwick we strolled around the little village again, checking
out the shops. It was soon time to return to the ship to get warm!!
TK’s Takes: The town looked just like the
TV show, Shetland. He wanted to see the Chief Detective’s house (DI Jimmy Perez)
and we did! Now we have visited two of
Scotland’s island areas, Shetland and Orkney [2024]! [Orkney was not as cold]. Getting up early to go through the new UK immigration requirement was worth it. The only thing better was if we didn't have to take a water shuttle to the port. This was a very good port of call.