Showing posts with label Halifax. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Halifax. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 1, 2026

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA: VIBRANT WATERFRONT BOARDWALK, AND MEETING AN OLD FRIEND!

Tuesday, September 1, 2026
Halifax, Nova Scotia
73F and sunny!

The schooner, Silva

To say that Halifax is the vibrant coastal capital of Nova Scotia, Canada, is an understatement. Its rich maritime history and beauty make the port spectacular.  I wish everyone in Erie could see the Halifax Waterfront Boardwalk—all public, one of the longest continuous downtown boardwalks in the world.  Shops, hotels, upscale restaurants, cafes, chocolate shops, ice cream, food trucks, tall ships, ferries, public art, museums all along the way, obviously well-planned, totally accessible, and with parking nearby.   As I said when we first visited Halifax in 2022, how we wish Erie's bayfront on Presque Isle Bay could be so well-planned.

The population of Halifax is approximately 440,000. It is one of Canada's most historic Atlantic cities. 

Many immigrants were 
welcomed in Canada 
at the Port of Halifax


Boardwalk
The wave

We did not have an agenda today, so we strolled leisurely along the boardwalk, admiring the various sculptures, the 3 masted schooner in the process of docking, stopping in some of the shops.  We did intend to find the Bluenose II restaurant (https://bluenoseii.ca/) where we knew the lobster roll was good (2022), but one of the shop vendors told us The Canteen, a short ferry ride away, was voted the best lobster roll in Halifax by its residents.

From the Coast Community newsletter: “In the 2026 “Best Lobster Roll” category, The Canteen in Dartmouth was voted Gold Winner by The Coast Halifax community poll, beating out other top contenders like Evan’s Seafood and Tom’s Lobster Shack.”  TK and I were intrigued, and today the ferry was free for seniors (usually $3).  So, we hopped on the ferry for a 10 minute “sail” to Dartmouth, another part of Halifax.

Not too many people on the
ferry at 11:30 a.m.

On the ferry
What we did not know was that the Canteen’s signature “Crobster Roll” is a creative twist on the classic: a generous mix of Nova Scotia snow crab and lobster served on a toasted bun with truffle aioli, grainy mustard, and fresh dill.  I was having none of that—mustard on lobster???  TK, the Brave, said it was OK, I opted for a cheeseburger.  https://www.thecanteen.ca/

The Canteen on Portland

Lesson learned. Back to the ferry and the exquisite boardwalk.  TK purchased a Halifax Fire Department T-shirt, a fire department since 1784.  I was reading about the Halifax explosion that happened in 1917, and the response of the fire department and lost lives.  It was one of the worst maritime disasters ever.  The Halifax explosion of 1917 occurred when a munitions ship blew up in the harbor of Halifax and nearly 2000 people died and some 9000 were injured. It flattened more than one square mile of the city. The blast was the largest human-made explosion at the time, packing the equivalent of more than 3000 tons of TNT.  https://www.hfxfirehistory.ca/historical-events/the-halifax-explosion

Great ice cream here!

As we were returning to the ship, we just happened to see someone we know! In 2009, we met Vicki and Bernie Bowne, who now live in Nova Scotia, while on a Princess ship in the Caribbean, the same time that we met our partners in crime, Donna and Lawrence of Wisconsin and Nancy and Brian of California.  There was Vicki sitting on the Halifax Boardwalk!!! Such a sweet reunion.  Vicki and Bernie traveled to Halifax to meet two friends who were on our same ship, to spend the day together. We missed seeing Bernie—but it was special seeing Vicki. After retiring from their jobs in Vancouver, they relocated to Nova Scotia. Vicki now works fairly often as a Guest Lecturer on several cruise lines, including Princess and Holland America. 

Janie, TK, and Vicki!

That was our sparkling day! I kept thinking we would be in Boston tomorrow and that I had to pack today—to my surprise, I found out we still have another sea day! We fly out of Boston on Thursday!

TK’s Takes:  He enjoyed the sun today, even on the balcony.

Thursday, September 29, 2022

LOBSTER ROLL AND HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA

Thursday, September 269, 2022

Enchanted Princess/Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

70s, sunshine—warm, again! And we are not complaining!

 

I cannot believe that TK overslept this morning.  The ocean waves lull the soul into a restful sleep.  We really did not have a schedule and we are in Halifax until 5:30 p.m., AST (Atlantic Standard Time, one hour ahead of EST.

 In no time (TK might not agree as it takes plenty of time for me to “get beautiful), but we were off the ship by 9 a.m.  We remembered my dear sister in law wanted our impression of Peggy"s Cove, but all tours were sold out. I asked a cab driver, and he could take us there (an hour drive), stay for about 45 minutes, and then return. This was not an inexpensive proposition, but I am glad we did! Del Mestdagh was knowledgeable and told us stories about the city and the environs as he drove. We passed lots of trees down as well as construction because of Hurricane Fiona. 


He pointed out the town hall, new schools, the new city library, and other sites as we made our way out of town.

 He spoke of the cemetery for those who died on the Titanic. He also spoke about the 1917 explosion (https://www.britannica.com/event/Halifax-explosion). I knew it was one of the worst maritime disasters ever.  The Halifax explosion of 1917 occurred when a munitions ship blew up in the harbor of Halifax and nearly 2000 people died and some 9000 were injured. It flattened more than one square mile of the city. The blast was the largest human-made explosion at the time, packing the equivalent of more than 3000 tons of TNT.


A granite rock left from a glacier on the way to Peggys Cove. 
Huge boulders are all over!

We reached Peggy's Cove and marveled at the terrain—no wonder it is famed for its picturesque houses and granite boulders left behind by the glaciers and smoothed by the ocean. It is an active fishing community with a population of 40!  The red and white active light house stands like a sentinel on the Atlantic Ocean.

Part of the cove

Janie and Peggy's Cove lighthouse

TK wanted his photo with this lobster

Part if the small village

Another view of the village
By the way, this photo took almost 2 hours to upload

Church at Peggy's Cove
This photo took about 2 seconds to download at the American Airlines lounge in NYC!

William Edward deGarthe was a Finnish-born painter and sculptor 
who lived for much of his life in Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia.
The work depicts thirty-two fishermen and their wives and children 
enveloped by the wings of the guardian angel St. Elmo. 
It also features the image of Peggy, a legendary late-18th century shipwreck survivor
 deGarthe believed gave her name to the village. 
deGarthe bequeathed the sculpture to the province of Nova Scotia
 and it can be viewed in a park located behind his former home


On the return trip we took a different route and stopped at Ryer Lobsters Ltd., worldwide seafood shippers, part of the Nova Scotia Seafood Alliance. Dave, the owner, took his time and showed us a range of lobsters of varying sizes. He explained the season (November to May) in this specific area (Indian Harbor).  I know there were no other tours that stopped here, a highlight.

Dave showed us these lobsters, ranging in size from 2 1/2 pounds on the left to 1 pound on the right.

2.5 pounds

An unusual orange lobster


Del entertained us with stories of some of his famous passengers like Charlie Pride, Harry Belafonte, and Anne Murray ("Snowbird"). In no time we were back in Halifax at the Blue Nose II restaurant he recommended for lobster roll.  TK opted for lobster roll AGAIN and a cup of chowder. He decided the best lobster roll was in Boston at the Quincy Market. Anyway, I had deep fried haddock, which was delicious.  Cost: $37.01 USD  plus $10 tip.  ($50.89 Canadian)  All other prices I have quoted in previous posts were in US dollars (USD).

Bluenose II restaurant

Sign in front of Bluenose II

TK's lobster roll

Janie's fried halibut


On the walk back to the ship we were very impressed by the boardwalk along the shore--obviously well-planned, totally accessible, with a variety of shops and parking nearby.  Upscale restaurants and others like food trucks--something for everyone.  How we wish Erie's bayfront could be well-planned.

Near Bluenose

Along the boardwalk

Boardwalk
Boardwalk

Boardwalk

We really enjoyed our day in Halifax.

This evening was another formal night, but as I said before, changes are obvious. At dinner we reminisced about how TK would rent a tux in Erie to bring on the ship and there were even shops onboard where one could rent a tux. I would wear long or short gowns, too. That lasted till the early 2000s for us. Now, I don't think anyone wears a tux. There are still cocktail dresses and some men wear suits or jackets. It is all I can do to persuade TK to bring a dress shirt and even harder to convince him to bring a tie.  He looked spiffy in his dark blue dress shirt and tie tonight.

Dinner was very good! Maine lobster tail and Beef Wellington were two the choices. Believe it or not, we both chose the lobster tail. On Caribbean cruises, the Caribbean lobster is served on formal night--there is a huge difference. TK ordered the Beef Wellington too, but it did not compare to the lobster.

After dinner we went to the Princess Theater for the show, styled after Broadway, "Spotlight Bar."  I thought it was clever how the band portrayed a band at the bar. This is a new show for Princess and only two ships in the fleet are performing it. Themes were mundane job (server, bartender), looking for love, rejection, and hookups.  The set was very authentic (I do suppose it isn't too hard to depict a bar), and the lighting is spectacular--day, night, rain. 

I just cannot load any more photos till we are home--then it will take seconds. I could write a book, clean the house, and go grocery shopping in the time it takes onboard the ship. This does not bode well for our Mediterranean cruise. TK said Royal Caribbean now may have satellite access of its own. I have no idea, but this is SLOWER THAN SLOW.