Friday, July 5, 2024

A VISIT TO MAINZ: MARC CHAGALL STAINED GLASS WINDOWS AND TWO GUTENBERG BIBLES!



Hotel Blucheral aka Hotel sur Post
Blucherstrasse 162
Bacharach, Germany
Friday, July 5, 2024
77F, sunny

 

Jim and Ann on the train this morning!

Derek, who has energy that creates energy, took Kim and Kylie to the Frankfort airport (from Bacharach) at 5:15 a.m. this morning because they were leaving the trip today.  He bounced back to our hotel, and we all went to the bakery for coffee and whatever at 9 a.m. 

TK already brought me my coffee and croissant—those 106 steps down and back up.  I doubt I will ever stay again in a hotel with no elevator, especially when our room is on the 3rd floor--six flights of stairs.


Our adventure today was only one train ride away, about an hour, to Mainz.  Mainz is another city on the Rhine River, known for its old town, with half-timbered ho Mainz is a German city on the Rhine River. It’s known for its old town, with half-timbered houses and medieval market squares.

View at the Bacharach train station
vertical farming
Riesling grapes
Chris and Jim saw a machine on the hill that we can see from our balcony actually passing horizontally past the rows of grape vines on another similar vertical farm, and another part of the machine jutted down the row and trimmed the vines.  I could not do that.

Our first stop, just off the train was the ruins of a Roman amphitheater. 

 
Amphitheater-Roman ruins in Mainz, Germany
Evidently there are plans to
restore the amphitheater

From there we had a long walk uphill to St. Stephan zu Mainz, a Roman Catholic church. The church is significant because from 1978 and his death in 1985, Belarusian Jewish artist Marc Chagall created nine stained-glass windows of scriptural figures in luminous blue. The figures depict scenes from the Old Testament, demonstrating the commonalities across Christian and Jewish traditions. Chagall intended his work to be a contribution to Jewish-German reconciliation, made all the more poignant by the fact that Chagall himself fled France under Nazi occupation. He chose St. Stephan due to his friendship with Monsignor Klaus Mayer, who was then the presiding priest of St. Stephan. Chagall's work has been continued after his death by his pupil Charles Marq and by others.

Enjoy the stained glass windows by Marc Chagall---------










As I have probably said many times before in this blog, Friend Judy and I met Marc Chagall at Fondation Maeght art museum (in Saint Paul de Vence) in 1967-1968 when I was studying art history in Aix-en-Provence, France. He was intrigued by two American girls who spoke French and signed a print for us.  I have treasured this memory ever since and still have the print—now framed archivally.  Chagall also created stained glass windows for the Reims Cathedral, probably for similar reasons-its destruction in WWII. TK and I visited Reims in 2015 – those windows are exquisite too—worth seeing!

 We walked from St. Stephan’s to the area of the market place—where believe it or not, TK found sfogiatelle—my most favorite pastry on the planet, at an Italian vendor. He has the best eye!

Sfogiatelle-the most delicious pastry
on the planet/ Italian-Naples

Market

The gang posing at an interesting sculpture


Ann at Jamy's 

Jamy's Burger Grill

After enjoying lunch at Jamy’s Burger Grill (tasty burger), we walked to the Cathedral of Mainz, mostly Romanesque in style, built of deep red sandstone.

Other sights along the way--------------

Poppies for Chris H!

Now this is a knight!
Love public art!

TK spotted this mail machine--
postman somewhere!


More public art

Chris-the best barber!
We must have seen hundreds of
barbershops in Germany!

Timber frame

Chris and another barber shop!
Market


TK's Italian bakery vendor
Cathedral of Mainz

 






The highlight of the day was visiting the Gutenberg Museum. I never dreamed I would see an original Gutenberg Bible and this museum houses two.  They are kept in a low light vault where no photos can be taken. An English-speaking guide said there are 50 extant, out of the 180 original Gutenberg Bibles. America has 10 of them. The museum purchased one several years ago for $1.8 million.  The last sale of a complete Gutenberg Bible took place in 1978, which sold for $2.4 million. This copy is now in Austin, Texas. The price of a complete copy today is estimated at $25−35 million.

Gutenberg Museum

Janie on a throne of books!

Various photos of presses and prints in the early years of printing.







Johannes Gutenberg


"B" for two wonderful granddaughters
B1 and B2!

A beautiful nearby garden

Statue of Johannes Gutenberg
b. circa 1395, d. circa 1468

The bottom line for me is that the Gutenberg printing press made the Bible accessible to people, and really begins the age of enlightenment—READING!  The display of printing presses is a marvel and I was thinking of my brother, a printer by trade. He had several types of presses, including a linotype when he started. I know he will correct me about this if I am wrong.

This museum was a super highlight!

After the museum visit we sauntered to a bus stop to catch a bus to the train station. Back to Bacharach and packing for our departure tomorrow!  That means a 4 p.m. wake up, catch a train with all of our luggage out of Bacharach and on to Frankfort airport. Home Sweet Home on  Saturday!

 This was a great trip and we had a lot of fun.  Germany has been a delight and we certainly felt part of the culture for a short time. 

 TK’s Takes:  He hasn’t seen any cats. Jim and Ann saw one.

 

Janie:  14,200 steps

TK:       13,190 steps




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