Wednesday, October 2, 2024

ORKNEY ISLANDS, SCOTLAND: NEOLITHIC SITES, SWANS, GRAY SEALS, AND BLUE SKIES!

Regal Princess/Orkney Islands, Scotland
Wednesday, October 2, 2024
Sunny, 56F

Janie at the Standing Stones of Stennis
No Outlander type travel to 
Scotland of long ago!

Orkney is an archipelago off the north coast of Scotland. There are about 70 islands, of which 20 are inhabited (population 22,000). The largest island, the Mainland (where we docked), has an area of 202 sq miles, making it the sixth largest Scottish island and the tenth largest island in the British Isles. Orkney's largest settlement, and its administrative center, is Kirkwall, where the Regal Princess docked today.

 The islands have been inhabited for at least 8,500 years, originally occupied by Mesolithic and Neolithic tribes and then by the Picts. Orkney was colonized and later annexed by the Kingdom of Norway in 875 A.D. and settled by the Norsemen.

In 1472, the Parliament of Scotland absorbed the Earldom of Orkney into the Kingdom of Scotland, following failure to pay a dowry promised to James III of Scotland by the family of his bride, Margaret of Denmark.

Residents are called Orcadians; they speak a distinctive dialect of the Scots language and have a rich body of folklore. Orkney contains some of the oldest and best-preserved Neolithic sites in Europe; the "Heart of Neolithic Orkney" is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. [Note: It is probably the only UNESCO World Heritage site where sheep roam free]

This morning, we met our new friends for our private tour today, Barb (who arranged the tour) and Bob [Michigan], Stacy and George [California].  The six of us met Paul of PJ Orkney Tourswww.jporkney.co.uk) right off the ship on this absolutely perfect day—sunny, no wind, and tolerable temperature.

Paul of PJ Orkney Tours

Paul drove a Mercedes Benz electric van which was very comfortable and quiet. The first thing he mentioned was that the Orkney Islands, Juneau, Alaska, St. Petersburg, Russia, and southern Greenland all share the same latitude. Also, the Orkney Islands are closer to Norway than London!  Interesting facts! But, Paul was full of interesting facts as we drove along.  We were very intrigued by this area of Scotland.

Beefy beef cattle along the way

Sheep grazing along the way

According to Tour Guide Paul, the weather is mild with the average 60F in the summer and 40F in the winter. Snow is not common and does not stay. The Gulf Stream makes the difference.  Wind is another story and makes life chilling with gale force winds (30 mph) every 13 days in the winter.  Another fact: in the summer the population experience almost 24 hours of sunlight, and in the winter, mostly dark. He said owls are seen in the daylight in summer, what choice to they have if they want to eat?

There are few trees since the Neolithic people used existing trees for building materials and keeping warm and now the winter wind makes it difficult to grow trees.  Ninety-five per cent of the land is grass and the area is known for its highly prized beef cattle, dairy cows for cheese, and sheep. As we passed by on winding narrow roads, we saw plenty of big beefy cattle and sheep.  The stone fences dividing the properties and keeping the livestock penned can be up to 200 years old or more.

After a look at the seals swimming freely in the loch nearby, our first stop was the Standing Stones of Stenness, which are older than those at Stonehenge. Nearby was the Ring of Brodgar. I am totally intrigued by these “standing stones,” and of course, the TV series Outlander has made the sites even more popular. No one knows for certain what the sites mean, but speculation is that they were part of ceremonies and very sacred.  The Standing Stones of Stenness are 17 ft out of the ground with 5-6 ft underground. Many are still standing despite the impact of weather.

One of the Standing Stones of Stenness
there are about 12 still visible
forming a sort of circle

Standing Stones of Stenness

Standing Stones of Stenness

Paul told us that archeologists from around the world have studied the sites, with enough artifacts (over 100,000) for further research for the next 10 years.   We visited the Ring of Brodgar too, with 60-70 stones.

Ring of Brodgar
One side, part of the circle

Ring of Brodgar
The other side, overlooking a loch




The ripples on this rock are fossilized wave action

How do the Orkneys fit into WWI and WWII? The British and American Navy, Army, and Air Force used the area as a base—I will be studying this in the future. In WWII, one of the reasons was because Nazi Germany occupied nearby Norway.

Another important stop was Skaill House, a historic manor house first built in the early 1600s and is still a residence by a Lord today. The manor house overlooks Skara Brae, western Europe’s best example of a neolithic village.   We enjoyed lunch at the gift shop’s coffee shop—TK and I shared carrot cake. Daring Bob tried Cullen Skink, a soup of smoked fish, leeks, potatoes, and milk. He said it was good, even though he really wanted Steak Kidney Pie.


One of the homes in Skara Brae--
a fire would be in the center

I cannot edit the photos because of the glitch since the beginning of this trip.
I would like to lighten it up so you can see the beds

It was an overwhelming experience to glimpse into the way people lived over 5000 years ago. The village was discovered about 1850 when it was uncovered by a storm, and predates the Egyptian pyramids. Two hundred people could have lived here in the interconnected homes, partly underground, ten to a home, according to Paul. 

Dear Reader, I had no idea what the Orkney Islands were all about, as well as its prehistory—we are learning so much new information and this short blog will not do it justice. I know I will research further. I have been watching YouTube videos about archeological discoveries in England, and now I need to dig further! Enjoy the photos!

Paul stopped at his home so we could meet his delightful wife Jane—their home is in The Palace, a small village. A castle ruin is right in front of their home, and an old church and very old cemetery is right next door. Jane is a teacher, 11-18 year olds, and they have a small shop with most products made by them.  https://www.jporkneyproduce.co.uk/ 

Paul and Jane's home in village called The Palace
The Palace, for which the village is named I believe,
 in ruins, directly across from Paul's house

The church next to Paul's house

The extent of the village of The Palace

Clear lochs, sun, fresh water, brackish water, ocean water, swans, gray seals, blue skies, beautiful clouds, beefy beef cattle, hundreds of sheep, stone fences, and neolithic sites---Orkney Islands was a great stop!!  We could not have asked for a better tour guide or a better tour!

TK's Takes:  This has been the best day so far. Weather and a private tour. Private tours are riskier in a sense, but they are more personal. You are not jam packed in a big bus and you can go to places that larger buses cannot go.  Most of the time private tours are less expensive than cruise tours.  He saw two seals in the first loch.  They swam into that area because the orcas that were after them could not get them there--a land bridge prevented that.

TK is always drawn to the sea...






4 comments:

  1. Thanks for the informative data in this area dud nit know about the climate but must get really windy there. Did you try some local food, except to sample the soup, would be an adventure od tastes since the history is so diverse. Enjoy.

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  2. Hope you like my local spellings, ha ha

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  3. I'm so happy someone reads the blog!! Spell on! I am conservative with eating odd foods. Will write about some of TK's food adventures today.

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  4. I love haggis! It reminds me of kiszka, a Polish sausage that my mother made frequently during my childhood, but you probably wouldn't like that either, lol.

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