Thursday, October 3, 2024

EDINBURGH --HAGGIS, CULLEN SKINK, AND A WARM REUNION!

Regal Princess/Edinburgh, Scotland
Thursday, October 3, 2024
Cloudy then Sunny, 56F

Sunrise over Edinburgh, Scotland

We bravely took the tender this morning to Hawes Pier outside Edinburgh. Thankfully Princess Cruises arranged a bus shuttle to run continuously into Edinburgh, about 25 minutes inland, so we immediately jumped on the bus.

This city of 506,000 sure showed off its beauty today, the Edinburgh Castle, the statue of Sir Walter Scott, the Royal Mile, churches, and government buildings standing tall. We had three layers of clothing on, sufficient for the day, and headed to Starbucks for our 4th souvenir mug and a quick coffee.

Liverpool, Edinburgh, and Belfast
London is already packed

The coffee gave us the energy to walk over six miles today, reminiscent of our travel to Germany in June-July.  Last week we averaged over 6 miles a day, but this week was a little less before today.

Edinburgh Castle atop a "plug"
of an extinct volcano

A Memorial to Sir Walter Scott
Edinburgh
(Ivanhoe, Rob Roy)

Sir Walter Scott


Pasties



Along the Royal Mile

Along the Royal Mile

Edinburgh Castle
View from near Edinburgh Castle

TK was checking out places for lunch while I browsed woolen shops and souvenir shops.  If only we had not missed the Aran Sweater Market in Dublin. We walked most of the Royal Mile up to Edinburgh Castle. Going inside was not on our agenda today, because we had plans later. 

After awhile lunch was indeed on the agenda, so we went to the pub TK had decided on, Beacon Brodies Tavern, which is named after one of the city's most famous sons, Deacon William Brodie – one of the inspirations behind Robert Louis Stevenson's Jekyll and Hyde.  I am not sure if it had the same name, but this pub has been in this location for 150 years.


TK ordered Haggis and Cullen Skink, while I ordered a cheeseburger.  Neither was his favorite, but the haggis was edible because of the gravy. What is haggis? Sheep's heart, liver, and lungs, minced with oatmeal, suet, chopped onion, spices, and salt—now you know.

Deacon Brodies Tavern

Cullen Skink
Smoked fish, potatoes, leeks, milk, flour, 
a sort of soup

Mashed potatoes, carrots, and haggis.
Gravy in the small pitcher.
I don't think he will order that again.

A REUNION!

We easily walked to our bus stop to catch the bus back to the port for a very exciting event.  In 1990 we took a cruise on the Royal Caribbean Sovereign of the Seas—it was TK’s first cruise, and I had to convince him to go.  When we reported to dinner we had been assigned (as the custom at that time) to dine with 5 Scottish lads, all over 21.  They were delightful and we enjoyed their company very much.  They wore kilts on formal nights and had a great time—so charming and so appealing to both young and old alike!

 

Edinburgh--October 3, 2024
TK, Janie, Karen, and Mike
The bridge in the background is a rail bridge

Royal Caribbean Soverign of the Seas--August 1990
Mike on the right 

“Mike I” and his wonderful wife “Karen” met us when we got off the bus---a friendship of 34 years!  It seemed like no time at all had passed.  We talked for several hours, travel and family and Scottish history, foods, British TV shows.  I wondered why the deciduous trees in Great Britain were still green. Answer: it is still early in GB, but they do not have the glorious colors that we do in the Fall. Colors are weather dependent here and not exactly rare, but seldom—like Paul in Orkney said the leaves turn brown and then fall off.

It was hard to leave Mike and Karen behind, and we hope to see them again one day.


TK’s Takes:  When we met Mike and Karen we went to a nearby coffee shop near Hawes Pier. TK had sticky toffee pudding for the 4th time this trip. He said this one was the very best and he would come back for it!  He is calling it STP.

This is what TK sees ...

Sunset over Edinburgh
by Janie




 

Wednesday, October 2, 2024

ORKNEY ISLANDS, SCOTLAND: NEOLITHIC SITES, SWANS, GRAY SEALS, AND BLUE SKIES!

Regal Princess/Orkney Islands, Scotland
Wednesday, October 2, 2024
Sunny, 56F

Janie at the Standing Stones of Stennis
No Outlander type travel to 
Scotland of long ago!

Orkney is an archipelago off the north coast of Scotland. There are about 70 islands, of which 20 are inhabited (population 22,000). The largest island, the Mainland (where we docked), has an area of 202 sq miles, making it the sixth largest Scottish island and the tenth largest island in the British Isles. Orkney's largest settlement, and its administrative center, is Kirkwall, where the Regal Princess docked today.

 The islands have been inhabited for at least 8,500 years, originally occupied by Mesolithic and Neolithic tribes and then by the Picts. Orkney was colonized and later annexed by the Kingdom of Norway in 875 A.D. and settled by the Norsemen.

In 1472, the Parliament of Scotland absorbed the Earldom of Orkney into the Kingdom of Scotland, following failure to pay a dowry promised to James III of Scotland by the family of his bride, Margaret of Denmark.

Residents are called Orcadians; they speak a distinctive dialect of the Scots language and have a rich body of folklore. Orkney contains some of the oldest and best-preserved Neolithic sites in Europe; the "Heart of Neolithic Orkney" is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. [Note: It is probably the only UNESCO World Heritage site where sheep roam free]

This morning, we met our new friends for our private tour today, Barb (who arranged the tour) and Bob [Michigan], Stacy and George [California].  The six of us met Paul of PJ Orkney Tourswww.jporkney.co.uk) right off the ship on this absolutely perfect day—sunny, no wind, and tolerable temperature.

Paul drove a Mercedes Benz electric van which was very comfortable and quiet. The first thing he mentioned was that the Orkney Islands, Juneau, Alaska, St. Petersburg, Russia, and southern Greenland all share the same latitude. Also, the Orkney Islands are closer to Norway than London!  Interesting facts! But, Paul was full of interesting facts as we drove along.  We were very intrigued by this area of Scotland.

Beefy beef cattle along the way

Sheep grazing along the way

According to Tour Guide Paul, the weather is mild with the average 60F in the summer and 40F in the winter. Snow is not common and does not stay. The Gulf Stream makes the difference.  Wind is another story and makes life chilling with gale force winds (30 mph) every 13 days in the winter.  Another fact: in the summer the population experience almost 24 hours of sunlight, and in the winter, mostly dark.

There are few trees since the Neolithic people used existing trees for building materials and keeping warm and now the winter wind makes it difficult to grow trees.  Ninety-five per cent of the land is grass and the area is known for its highly prized beef cattle, dairy cows for cheese, and sheep. As we passed by on winding narrow roads, we saw plenty of big beefy cattle and sheep.  The stone fences dividing the properties and keeping the livestock penned can be up to 200 years old or more.

After a look at the seals swimming freely in the loch nearby, our first stop was the Standing Stones of Stenness, which are older than those at Stonehenge. Nearby was the Ring of Brodgar. I am totally intrigued by these “standing stones,” and of course, the TV series Outlander has made the sites even more popular. No one knows for certain what the sites mean, but speculation is that they were part of ceremonies and very sacred.  The Standing Stones of Stenness are 17 ft out of the ground with 5-6 ft underground. Many are still standing despite the impact of weather.

One of the Standing Stones of Stenness
there are about 12 still visible
forming a sort of circle

Standing Stones of Stenness

Standing Stones of Stenness

Paul told us that archeologists from around the world have studied the sites, with enough artifacts (over 100,000) for further research for the next 10 years.   We visited the Ring of Brodgar too, with 60-70 stones.

Ring of Brodgar
One side

Ring of Brodgar
The other side, overlooking a loch




The ripples on this rock are fossilized wave action

How do the Orkneys fit into WWI and WWII? The British and American Navy, Army, and Air Force used the area as a base—I will be studying this in the future. In WWII, one of the reasons was because Nazi Germany occupied nearby Norway.

Another important stop was Skaill House, a historic manor house first built in the early 1600s and is still a residence by a Lord today. The manor house overlooks Skara Brae, western Europe’s best example of a neolithic village.   We enjoyed lunch at the gift shop’s coffee shop—TK and I shared carrot cake. Daring Bob tried Cullen Skink, a soup of smoked fish, leeks, potatoes, and milk. He said it was good, even though he really wanted Kidney Pie.


One of the homes in Skara Brae--
a fire would be in the center

I cannot edit the photos because of the glitch since the beginning of this trip.
I would like to lighten it up so you can see the beds

It was an overwhelming experience to glimpse into the way people lived over 5000 years ago. The village was discovered about 1850 when it was uncovered by a storm, and predates the Egyptian pyramids. Two hundred people could have lived here in the interconnected homes, partly underground, ten to a home, according to Paul. 

Dear Reader, I had no idea what the Orkney Islands were all about, as well as its prehistory—we are learning so much new information and this short blog will not do it justice. I know I will research further. I have been watching YouTube videos about archeological discoveries in England, and now I need to dig further! Enjoy the photos!

Paul stopped at his home so we could meet his delightful wife Jane—their home is in The Palace, a small village. A castle ruin is right in front of their home, and an old church and very old cemetery is right next door. Jane is a teacher, 11-18 year olds, and they have a small shop with most products made by them.  https://www.jporkneyproduce.co.uk/ 

Paul and Jane's home in village called The Palace
The Palace in ruins, directly across from Paul's house

The church next to Paul's house

The extent of the village of The Palace

Clear lochs, sun, fresh water, brackish water, ocean water, swans, gray seals, blue skies, beautiful clouds, beefy beefy cattle, hundreds of sheep, stone fences, and neolithic sites---Orkney Islands was a great stop!!  We could not have asked for a better tour guide or a better tour!

TK's Takes:  This has been the best day so far. Weather and a private tour. Private tours are riskier in a sense, but they are more personal. You are not jam packed in a big bus and you can go to places that larger buses cannot go.  Most of the time private tours are cheaper than cruise tours.  He saw two seals in the first loch.  They swam into that area because the orcas that were after them could not get them there--a land bridge prevented that.







Tuesday, October 1, 2024

SUNSET OVER THE IRISH SEA!

Regal Princess/The Irish Sea
Tuesday, October 1, 2024
Sunny, 56F

Sunset over the Irish Sea tonight

This was a quiet day at sea, and I won’t be blogging as much on sea days, but there were a couple things to note, most said in photos!


Rocks in the Irish Sea--noon October 1, 2024




Unbaked calzone
in a cooking demo
Credit to TK

Artful seafood
Credit to TK

I really wanted this photo taken!
Credit TK


Pool Deck / October 1, 2024
Credit TK

TK's Takes: As cold as it was, with just a little sun today, some people headed to the Pool Deck lounge chairs. He has even seen people in the hot tubs by the pool.