Sunday, June 30, 2024

LINDAU, GERMANY, LAKE CONSTANCE, AND HAMBURGERS!

 Metropol Apartments

Muhlstrasse 1

Tubingen, Germany

Sunday, June 30, 2024

70sF, sunny and a little rain

 

Bavarian lion and a stone lighthouse guard the harbor

We awoke early to a quiet Tubingen on a Sunday morning for a short bus ride to the train station. Thankfully there was a Veit Bakery there so we could grab a bite (croissant) and some coffee before we were off on another adventure.

Peaceful Tubingen, just outside our hotel
Bridge crosses the Neckar River
 
Veit's Bakery

Three trains later, about 4 hours, we arrived in Lindau on Lake Constance, near the borders of Switzerland and Austria. Lindau, population about 25,000, is a delightful old town situated on an island.  The area has been German since 1805, Austrian previously. The harbor entrance features the Bavarian lion and a lighthouse (Germany’s most southern lighthouse) set against the Alps and the lake.

TK and Janie in Lindau, Germany

Along the waterfront in Lindau

 

Friend Ann was anxious to meet her 2nd cousin, Petra and Petra’s son Paul there—a very nice circumstance, especially since we knew Ann’s story of her two great uncles, one American-the other German, both killed in World War I. 

 

Since we were hungry again, Petra and Paul joined us for lunch at Onkel Tom’s Wirst Haus. I was so happy to see hamburgers!  My house hamburger was delicious with a mixture of ketchup, mayonnaise, and a “special sauce,” tomatoes, and gooey cheese.  TK enjoyed his currywurst brat—a sausage about 10 inches long with a barbecue-like sauce and curry.  Both lunches included French fries.

Exterior of Onkel Tom's Wirsthaus
We ate outside

Janie and her burger

TK's currywurst

After lunch we walked around the old town, beautifully preserved buildings, some dating to the 11th century, possibly earlier.  Lindau is a renowned summer resort and tourist center and retains its medieval and Baroque appearance.

Cool buildings

Citroen for Friend Judy-remember those days?

A house I could live in!

Of particular interest to me was Peterskirsche (St. Peter’s Church). The church was once dedicated to the apostle Simon Peter, the patron saint of the fishermen. Until 1180, St. Peter's Church was the parish church of the town of Lindau. The eastern parts of the existing building probably date from the middle of the 12th century, while the western third of the nave with the entrance dates from 1470.  The church was deconsecrated in the 17th century and was consecrated again as a war memorial in 1928.

St. Peter's Church in Lindau

Fresco mural attributed to Hans Holbein the Elder 
by some art historians

Fresco near choir area
There are memorial plaques in the entrance area for Lindau soldiers who died in World War I and II. They are complemented by plaques for those who were displaced from their homeland and, since 1981, for victims of the Nazi regime, including Jews, euthanasia victims and forced laborers, of which there were over 1,000 in the Lindau district. The latest plaque speaks of "warning signs from German history," warning signs about what has happened as a result of militarism, nationalism, imperialism, anti-Semitism, and xenophobia, so that it does not happen again. Remembering these memorial plaques is, to quote Ernst Bloch, only fruitful if it also reminds us of what still needs to be done.  [https://www.lindau.de/addresses/peterskirche/]

I was interested in the frescoes in the chapel, attributed by some art historians to German painter Hans Holbein the Elder, an artist among many whom I studied in art history classes at college in Aix-en-Provence.  He lived c. 1470-c. 1524. The style, subject manner, time period, all match, and he was living nearby at one point, but personally if they really were Holbein’s work, I would think they would be much better cared for and guarded. The church/chapel was open, no one else in sight.  No matter, they were beautiful, and I am glad that I saw them.

We continued our stroll with another break for gelato—I can attest to the fact that Fruits of the Forest is wonderful.

 Three or four hours later—whose counting? 11,053 steps for me and 10,000 for TK, we arrived back in Tubingen about 8 p.m.  Some of the group went to a Chinese restaurant.

New adventure tomorrow!  I will add that we are grateful for a guide who can read train and bus schedules like no one else!  And one more thing, Germans are very very polite and have given up seats on the trains several times for me. 

TK’s Takes:  Yesterday was hot, today cold!

Ann’s Takes: I was so excited to see my cousins!

Derek’s Takes: Well worth the train ride for the beautiful lake view!

Chris’s Takes: Soaking in all the scenery on the train ride, the orchards, the fields, the little towns!

Jim’s Takes: Enjoyed another/different German beer—Meckatzer!



K1 and K2 tomorrow!

Saturday, June 29, 2024

TUBINGEN GREETED US ON THE NECKAR RIVER!

 

Metropol Apartments

Muhlstrasse 1

Tubingen, Germany

June 29, 2024

83F, sunny

 

Train station in Tubingen

Bye to Munich at 9 a.m.—we hopped on trains to get us to Tubingen (I use this term lightly as we are schlepping luggage and going down steep stairs or escalators, getting on a train that quickly closes its doors, then up again many times. I am very grateful that Derek, Chris, Jim, and Tim help with this project, mostly for me).   The process took us about 4 hours.

 

Tubingen is a delightful city, population 90,000, and our rooms were ready for us at Metropol Apartments. No elevators, but only one set of stairs to our room.  TK and I are grateful that we can do all this walking and climbing although it does get interesting. Today was also a hot one.

 


In southwest Germany, Tubingen is home to one of Europe’s oldest universities. The University of Tübingen, is a public research university. The university's museum, housed in Hohentubingen Castle, has an exhibit of UNESCO World Heritage Ice-Age Art. 


 After lunch, we trekked up a 90 degree hill (I swear) to get to the museum housed in the university. I was very interested because I had watched YouTube videos of some of the early archeological artifacts in this museum. The long long walk was worth it

Horse carved from mammoth ivory
40,000 years ago
discovered in Vogelherd Cave located in Germany
about 2 in. x 1 in. and such an impact!
One of the earliest carvings ever found


"Animal" (I think it is a cave bear)
Vogelherd Cave

Half sculpture of a lion made of
mammoth ivory
40,000 years old

Official description of the carved figures

"Stone Man," 5th or 6th century B.C.
Found in a Celtic grave mound
probably a person of highest ranking of
Hall Statt society
Found in Hirschlanden near Leonburg

German coins--middle of the 12th century. Palatine Counts of
Tubingen were minting coins made from silver 
deposits in the Black Forest

I loved seeing a replica of the artwork on the Caves of 
Lascaux, France (ceiling)
I've read so much about the caves of Lascaux and it is very difficult to see them, especially since I am not an archeologist and I probably would have some difficulty sliding a rope into the cave.  I believe these are life size replicas--really a thrill to see this.

Cave wall

Early German woodcut Bible
Revelations in Latin

 
Ann and Jim with Tubingen in the background

Steep descent back to the old city

Along the way down to the old city, we found a gelato shop and enjoyed a refreshing cone—fruits of the forest was fabulous!

Jim and Ann with gelato!


 Finally we took a little stroll along the Neckar River--

A view one would expect in Germany!

Tim and Chris walking along the Neckar River

I am very  happy for an early evening, and a short 9805 steps today. TK chalked up 6500—he is disappointed that he did not go to the museum.


TK's Takes:  Very hot today, 92F. When one's "pee" is yellow, one must drink more water.

Friday, June 28, 2024

FROM DACHAU TO MUNICH, THE RESIDENCE MUSEUM AND ENGLISH GARDENS

 Jams Hotel

Stubenvollstrasse 2

https://www.jams-hotel.com

Munich, Germany

Friday, June 28, 2024

83F, sunny 


International Monument


Apologies to readers--it is getting more difficult to keep up. We returned to the hotel about 8:30 p.m. to pack for tomorrow --- 22,400 steps today, which is about 11 miles. I think I am at about my max and we are lucky we have kept up this far.  TK: 17,552


This was a very significant day because we went to Dachau, the first concentration camp built by Nazi Germany and the longest running one, opening on 22 March 1933. The camp was initially intended to intern Hitler's political opponents, which consisted of communists, social democrats, and other dissidents.  

Mortal Agony of Christ Chapel (Catholic Memorial)


Soon, political prisoners, Poles, Romani, Jews, homosexuals, the homeless, Jehovah's Witnesses, Catholic priests, and Communists were sent there. Later even Greeks, Hungarians,  Dutch, French, and more were transferred to Dachau.

 Many prisoners tried to start a resistance, but were heavily punished  and condemned to death.   

By 1941 medical experiments were performed on the sick and those unfit to work, biochemicals, sulfamide, great altitudes and hypothermia tested, typhoid treatments. 

By the end stage of the war, hygiene and food rationing were catastrophic, and there was much typhus.

Jewish Memorial

The parabola-shaped structure features a ramp that 

leads downward, reminding visitors of the extermination 

of European Jews. At its lowest point, light shines into the memorial 

through an opening. A menorah – 

a seven-branched candelabrum – made of marble from 

Peki’in is positioned on the top of the structure. 


The crematoriums were shut  down because of a coal shortage--one can imagine or do more research as to what was done to the prisoners

A plaque noted that the 42nd U.S. Army Division and a few others liberated the camp, but thousands of liberated prisoners died because it was not known how to care for those who were starving--lots of food was not the answer.


The Protestant Church of Reconciliation

The Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site, which stands on the site of the original camp, opened to the public in 1965. Friend Judy and I visited Dachau in 1967.  The visit had a great impact on  me then and it did now. There was much more information today, but the memorials are still there, with a message that one must never forget.

It is free to enter and thousands of people visit Dachau each year to learn about what happened there and remember those who were imprisoned and died during the Holocaust.

Barracks--104 men, 2 toilets

A book in one of the buildings has listed known names of those who died at Dachau. There were 19 surnames like ours. There were none with the surname of my sons.  I am sure research continues.


After our contemplative visit to Dachau, we returned to Munich and did some more sightseeing.

Near Marienplatz-Munich

Town Hall-Munich

Munich

St. Michael the Archangel

Lunch here

Another view of where some had lunch

After lunch we went to the Residence Museum, the Royal Palace/apartments of the king and queen of Bavaria--very neoclassical.

https://www.residenz-muenchen.de/englisch/museum/koenigsb.htm

I absolutely loved the marble doorframes


Marble fireplace

Blue Marble

Blue marble closeup



Chapel

Chandelier and mirror

King's bedroom


Wait, there's more--
After a brief respite, we hopped the train and tram to go to the English Gardens.

First, the surfers on a strong current



Buy your food here

Eat here--and you wondered how we could walk 11 miles

On to our next adventure!