GRENADA—THE SPICE ISLAND

Sunday, November 28, 2010
Sunny, some rain, 80s F

We arrived in St. George, Grenada about 8 a.m. this morning. Every single morning I have ordered room service of fruit, croissants, orange juice, and coffee and that is how we awaken. A knock on the door and I jump out of bed to open the door for a waiter with our breakfast tray! If only this could happen at home!

I have looked forward to Grenada, the Spice Island, for years, and finally we are here! Others told me that they smelled the spices as soon as they debarked their ship. That was not the case today. We agreed to a tour at the port with 8 others on an air conditioned bus for $20. Luckily we sat in the first row behind the driver because Grenada has plenty of hills and hairpin curves on 1 and ½ lane “highways.” Glen Robert was a good driver and tour guide.

Facts he mentioned:

§ The first permanent European settlement was established in 1650 by the French
§ During the 18th century the French and English held the island alternately until the Treaty of Versailles ceded Grenada to the British
§ In 1974 Grenada was given independence
§ Grenada is 133 square miles in size
§ The U.S. and President Reagan helped the people overcome the Communist government in 1983.
§ Hurricane Ivan destroyed 95% of the homes in Grenada in 2004. Glenn Robert’s house was totally destroyed. He said the night of the hurricane was the longest he ever experienced. He and his family spent the night in the bathroom since that room was cement. His entire house was gone except for the bathroom toilet and a wooden floor. He felt fortunate that his life and his family were spared.
§ Hurricane Emily came to Grenada 10 months later. What Ivan did not destroy was destroyed by Emily.
§ Houses are built on stilts. Since Ivan and Emily houses are built differently. (more cement, but he showed us bamboo “log” trucks and said bamboo was used for building)
§ The rainforest gets 120 inches of rain per year.
§ Two seasons, wet and dry. 6 months rainy season.
§ The population of St. George, the capital, is about 34,000
§ Grenada is #2 in nutmeg production, but #1 in quality (Indonesia produces more)
Things we saw:
§ Gas/$6 per gallon
§ Volcanic rock/red earth
§ Banyan trees
§ Annendale Falls—nice little steep walk, divers
§ Lake Etang
§ One of the highest points on the island --- 1910 ft. altitude
§ Two churches still in ruins from the Hurricanes
§ Forts Matthew, George, and Frederick
§ The Cuban compound
§ Beautiful white beaches

We also stopped at a spice store. A girl showed us a nutmeg tree and the nut pod. When the nut pod is opened, we saw the red covering, mace, and then the nut. When the nut is cracked open, there is the nutmeg. In the pod or shell, the nutmeg stays fresh for up to 5 years. Nutmeg is grated for use in cooking/baking.
She also showed us other spices grown on the island besides nutmeg and mace: cinnamon, cloves, cocoa, vanilla, almond, turmeric, ginger, bayleaf. They all smelled so fresh and strong.

After our bus tour, which morphed into $30 because he took us to a beach and lookout, plus our $5 tip, we walked to BB’s Crabback Restaurant which was featured in Oprah’s magazine, O. We enjoyed conch fixed with Caribbean spices and crabmeat baked with herbs, wine, cheese, in a crab shell. Let’s say TK enjoyed that-I prefer seafood deep fried and just could not finish even though it was tasty.

When Tim walked back to the ship, I walked to Dot’s Plaza to buy spices for family/ friends who cook. Insert smiley face!

We dined again in the Horizon Court-British food tonight. Fish and chips! We love the comedian Kevin Hughes—hope he comes to Jr.’s Last Laugh in Erie!


TK’s Takes: Grenada is much greener and lusher than Aruba. Everywhere we went people were selling spice necklaces. (the necklaces were threaded alternately with different spices and herbs like nutmeg and cinnamon bark and smelled so good, but we knew we could not take them back to the U.S.)